Climbing Extreme

During the years I’ve been using both traditional quickdraws as well as wiregate quickdraws. Just few weeks ago I had a first set of Wild Country Helium wiregates and last weekend I was able to have some real action with them. Since Heliums go around few issues that has plagued other wiregate quickdraws, I just wanted to write a short article about the differences and practical experiences with Heliums compared to other types of quickdraws.

Traditionally wiregates are lightweight and easy to clip, but on the other hand there is a nose that can hook up (=get stuck) either on the screw while unclipping, harness while clipping or somewhere else whatever it is. I’ve heard also some talk about wiregates being a bit less secure, because they are said to unclip easier in dead man’s loop situation. On the other hand wiregates are less prone to freezing, though I gave to say that I haven’t had any problems with my Black Diamond positron quickdraws either.

So what about Heliums then? First thing you note is the fact that Heliums are extremely light, lot lighter than traditional wiregate quickdraws tend to be, and it’s full sized (which is good). Second thing you note is the coloring of the carabineers, each end is colored differently, rope end being red. By closer look one notes the fact that the nose of the gate is being shielded, which prevents hooking (in my opinion the biggest annoyance with wiregates). The features include also rubber o-ring that keeps the rope-end carabineer in right position and eases up clipping.

In real climbing situation Heliums provided to be extremely easy to clip, and being light, climbs are that much easier. In short they seemed to work like thought. So far I haven’t found anything negative, except perhaps price. If I do, I will let you know. In case I would need new quickdraws, I would buy more Heliums. That’s probably the strongest recommendation one can give.

Update 12.5.2010

The rubber thing keeping the rope-end carabiner in place tends to break from stitching in cold conditions. The rubber material used there just can’t take it what comes to climbing in cold. It does not effect to the safety of the carabiner, but makes may result a bit less easy clippings. Until they change the material I would consider something else for ice climbing especially in extra cold environments. See the weak spots of quality gear article.

Few images of the Helium Quickdraw below: