Climbing Extreme

For some reason descending using Abalakov thread (v-thread) is always kind of exciting experience. Though it is known, when created properly, Abalakov thread is as safe as any ice protection; it just does not feel as secure as hanging in a screw. In an Abalakov thread one of the biggest question marks, from reliability stand point, is the correct angle and distance of the two screw holes. Black Diamond First Shot tries to address exactly that challenge. In short the concept feels great and the need is definitely there. While it’s a good idea on a concept level, the product does not seem to work quite as expected.

At first First Shot feels sturdy, high quality, piece of gear; exactly what we have come to expect from Black Diamond. There are several problems though. First Shot is somewhat difficult to open with gloves. The metal hook, that’s supposed to be used for cutting and threading the cord through the hole, bends very easily. Furthermore it’s not at all that easy as you could think to create the Abalakov using First Shot. Everything was even worse when the conditions were difficult. We tested the thing both in good conditions and in dark pretty heavy snow storm and ended up doing the Abalakov thread traditional way each time.

Of course it might just be that I was dumb enough not to figure out the correct way of operation. I kind of doubt that though. I went through the instructions pretty well and did several trials prior to trying First Shot on real ice. Based on my experience in its current stage it is not worth of your money. For me First Shot was a huge disappointment. Especially because Black Diamond usually gets it right.