Climbing Extreme

There was recently a discussion at www.rockclimbing.com about how to do a balanced V-thread (you can see the discussion here).  As one of the speculated methods was a long prusik cord combined with a sliding x -type of setup I decided to test it out. The test results can be summarized as a success. I found it fairly easy to create and the balancing works well. The only drawbacks are the need to leave behind either appropriate strength steel quick link, an old carabiner or similar + the balancing requires a lot more pursik cord than single V-thread. I’ve picked a few images below to illustrate our test session.

Oh, and one more thing before the images; If you’re interested in more detailed description of how to create a standard V-thread see my other blog article here.

Update 4.1.2011: As there was already some feedback about of being a good example or not at rockclimbing.com, I want to clarify that overall this is not a guide book example of a good V-thread, it is an equalization test case. There are several shortcomings, some of them have been pointed out in the image descriptions. Most importantly the spot was selected due to the ease of photography, not because we thought it as a good spot for V thread. In anycase, personally I wouldn’t had any problems of using the equalized V-thread here. This being said I wouldn’t had used only the V-thread that’s closer to the photographer. The second V-thread felt solid enough that it might have been used after proper testing and screw backup for the first climber (the one who’s heavier and who gives the good test bang for the V-thread).

All the test session images:

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[View with PicLens]

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