My first over 4000m solo accent on Weissmies
Wednesday, October 12th, 2011 16:57 by juho Print Print this page

I promised to write a bit about the summer trip to the Switzerland, but it took a while to have spare time for such. In any case here’s the first article. :-) Originally I had  plan to head to Eiger, but the weather turned out to be such, that only very few areas in the whole Switzerland enjoyed decent climbing weather. As a result I ended up to Saas valley, where I did my first over 4000m peak solo accent on Weismiess.

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Picture above: A view from the route to Weissmies.

Overall the accent was pretty straight forward. It was an easy PD-rated route and took about 7h from Allmagellerhütte to Weissmiess hütte. A bit of snow, one steeper scramble and then the glacier. Out of these the most interesting parts were the scramble, glacier and perhaps the ridge just before the top. I started a lot later than about 40 other groups that were heading up. Thise, despite the weather concerns, proved to be a good choice. Good mainly because weather stayed OK (weather worried me the most) and I was able to do the whole route in solitude. :-) Throughout the trip there was visible trail established by the earlier parties. However as there were some signs of fairly recent avalanches and spots where I had to jump over crevasses, the glacier part was still pretty exciting for a solo climber. :-)

Overall it’s really pleasant to climb in Switzerland. The huts are well equipped and good quality, you don’t have to carry all the food and there’s plenty of options. If you’re looking for first solo accent Weissmies seems also be pretty good choice. While being exciting enough, it’s fairly visited and the route is fairly straight forward. I’m sure though that there are plenty of other good options as well, but Weissmies worked for me just fine.

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Few images from the trip below:

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