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	<title>Climbing Extreme &#187; juho</title>
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	<description>Just for ice climbing.</description>
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		<title>Touring and ice climbing in Stora Sjöfallet, Sweden</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2012/01/touring-and-ice-climbing-in-stora-sjofallet-sweden/1051</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2012/01/touring-and-ice-climbing-in-stora-sjofallet-sweden/1051#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Jan 2012 21:44:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[climbing spots]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ski touring]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Touring spots]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rollomixed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stora Sjöfallet]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sweden]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=1051</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[We spent the first weekend of January in Stora Sjöfallet. Along my self I had Juho Särkilä and Tuomas Lahti. During the four days we climbed two and used the other two days for ski touring nearby mountains. Though there&#8217;s a very good and well located inn there, we decided to go camping instead. Picture [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We spent the first weekend of January in <a href="http://27crags.com/crags/stora-sjofallet" title="Stora Sjöfallet in 27crags.com">Stora Sjöfallet</a>. Along my self I had Juho Särkilä and Tuomas Lahti. During the four days we climbed two and used the other two days for ski touring nearby mountains. Though there&#8217;s a very good and well located <a href="http://www.storasjofallet.com" title="Stora Sjöfallet Mountain Center">inn</a> there, we decided to go camping instead. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/stora-sjofallet/p1040270.jpg" title="" class="shutterset_singlepic1068" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/1068_watermark_450x_p1040270.jpg" alt="p1040270" title="p1040270" />
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<br />
<small>Picture above: Greven and Grevinnan.</small></p>
<p>First of all I have to say that Stora Sjöfallet is a good place for both ice climbing as well as ski touring. For ice climbing there are several fairly easily accessible ice falls, up to 300-350 meters high and difficulties to fit all the tastes. In addition to these frequently visited falls there are several others less frequently climbed ones, as well as certain sweet spots with very high concentrations of high quality ice. In regards one of these sweet spots a fellow climber, Tapio Alhonsuo, has even <a href="http://www.rollomixed.com/2011/12/paremmilla-apajilla.html" title="Rollomixed: Paremmilla Apajille.">claimed</a> that the &#8220;barrel valley&#8221; is perhaps the best place he has climbed. As Tapio was kind enough to share the location details we went there as well. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  Furthermore a mountain that has the highest height difference in Sweden, Akka, is also located there. In addition to Akka there are several other great mountains for ski touring.</p>
<p>During the first day we climbed on Grevinnan, which is about 250m high grade WI IV fall. In the beginning, it was pretty easy, with a few snow sections in between. The actual steep part starts fairly high, almost at the end of the fall. The second day was dedicated for ski touring and naturally we went to wrong side of the mountain. While within treeline there was decent amount of snow (+trees and stones) the wind had blown away every bit of snow above it. Newer the less, it was good to be on skis.</p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/stora-sjofallet/p1040303.jpg" title="" class="shutterset_singlepic1081" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/1081_watermark_450x_p1040303.jpg" alt="p1040303" title="p1040303" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: The barrel valley, lots to climb.</small></p>
<p>The third day was dedicated to &#8220;barrel valley&#8221; mentioned above. As Tapio told, it&#8217;s magnificent place. The hike took about an hour, perhaps hour and half on skis. In the valley there are 6-7 ice falls within radius of 500 meters or so. On the left side they&#8217;re mostly low 1-1.5 pitches, whereas on right side high, perhaps up to 250 meters. While it might be a bit difficult to cross the valley through bottom, it can be done using the snow around the valley perimeter. The amount of snow in the valley is also one of its dangers. It really looks like worst kind of terrain trap and an avalanche magnet. So check the snow conditions before approaching and take avalanche gear with you.</p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/stora-sjofallet/p1040339.jpg" title="" class="shutterset_singlepic1098" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/1098_watermark_450x_p1040339.jpg" alt="p1040339" title="p1040339" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: A view from the sun valley ski touring trip.</small></p>
<p>Our final day was again dedicated for ski touring. We did a trip through famous &#8220;Sun Valley&#8221;, which truly is one. It wasn&#8217;t just the fact that this was our only sunny day, but also the direction and location of the valley. It opens to south and is a bit higher up and while mid winter sun isn&#8217;t very frequent guest that high up north, we actually had several hours of sun set type of sun shine. In short the location was spot on, furthermore the snow was great as was the skiing. Sun Valley route is easily accessible from the road and one can also ski almost all the way down back to road too. Recommended.</p>
<p><strong>Location details:</strong><br />
<iframe width="450" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&amp;msid=209741443969462034968.0004609a823d71a0f28b4&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;t=p&amp;vpsrc=6&amp;ll=67.519073,18.318329&amp;spn=0.091895,0.30899&amp;z=11&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small>View <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&amp;msid=209741443969462034968.0004609a823d71a0f28b4&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;t=p&amp;vpsrc=6&amp;ll=67.519073,18.318329&amp;spn=0.091895,0.30899&amp;z=11&amp;source=embed" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">www.climbingextreme.com</a> in a larger map</small></p>
<p><strong>Few images from the trip below:<br />
</strong>
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		<title>Ice climbing, ropes and single vs. half</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2012/01/ice-climbing-ropes-and-single-vs-half/933</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2012/01/ice-climbing-ropes-and-single-vs-half/933#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Jan 2012 09:34:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[equipment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[half rope]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[impact force]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[multi-pitch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ropes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[single rope]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[stance]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[twin rope]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wors case scenario]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=933</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[There&#8217;s been plenty of debate about the rope systems in ice climbing, weather to use single or half ropes in particularly. Some folks swear to the half ropes, whereas other insist that single ropes are better due to actually lower impact forces. So here&#8217;s my take on the topic. To orientate my view, I&#8217;m writing [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There&#8217;s been plenty of debate about the rope systems in ice climbing, weather to use single or half ropes in particularly. Some folks swear to the half ropes, whereas other insist that single ropes are better due to actually lower impact forces. So here&#8217;s my take on the topic. To orientate my view, I&#8217;m writing almost entirely from the perspective of multi-pitch ice climbing on pure waterfall ice. While I know that there are climbers with more experience under their belt, I hope the insights below are useful for fellow climbers, at least while figuring out their stand on the topic. I&#8217;ll dive into different rope systems once I&#8217;ve taken the beginners through the basic principles, if you&#8217;re an experienced climber you might want to skip the basic principles part. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/ropes/p1030012.jpg" title="Beal Rando twin, Edelweiss Sharp halfs and Beal Joker multiple standards ropes." class="shutterset_singlepic1016" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/1016_watermark_450x_p1030012.jpg" alt="p1030012" title="p1030012" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: The ropes I&#8217;m currently using.</small></p>
<p><strong>Basic principles</strong></p>
<p>Ideally you would like to select a rope that&#8217;s light, long, has low impact force, as well as excellent handling and is durable. Unfortunately these characteristics are, mildly put, somewhat opposing. So lets put these in order.</p>
<ol>
<li>Weight is an issue, approaches are usually long and heavier ropes also adds up while climbing. The weight difference between light and heavy ropes might be several kilos. So in my opinion that&#8217;s the number one.</li>
<li>Low impact force makes the climbing safer and anchors less likely to fail. Again something that&#8217;s really, really important, that&#8217;s my number two criteria.</li>
<li>Handling is again something that makes a difference. However on ice it&#8217;s not that much about the friction or ease of paying out the rope in simple sense. Most ice climbers are already experienced and confident belayers. Dry treatment has lot bigger impact here, as icy ropes are really, really difficult to handle &#8211; you should get the best dry treatment available. In trips that last multiple days, you can&#8217;t dry the ropes and the ice adds up. It also adds up in terms of weight. In short dry treatment is well worth all the money put into it.</li>
<li>Far after these three criteria comes the durability. Yes, it&#8217;s important, but not nearly as much as in rock climbing. In winter conditions ropes tend to wear a lot less than on rock because there&#8217;s less dirt and mud as well as friction. In ice climbing lead falls are also very, very rare, at least they should be. They&#8217;re such a dangerous affair that people should avoid them at all cost; if you fall, the rope that needs to be discarded is least of your worries. I&#8217;ve taken one lead fall and I&#8217;m not planning to take another one. Furthermore if ice axe or crampon nicks the rope, even thicker sheath is unlikely to protect the rope. Besides you can always cut the meter or two (the area where ice axe / crampon is likely ti nick) off from the rope without serious losses. So the durability is the least important factor, at least for me.</li>
</ol>
<p>So after these rope characteristics you&#8217;re down to two choices; The length and type, i.e. single vs. half ropes. While type question is somewhat complicated issue and I&#8217;ll dive into the topic shortly, the length is much more straight forward. For multi-pitch ice climbs that typically have several snow sections, 60 or 70 meters is in my opinion a good length. Longer rope makes the rappelling faster.</p>
<p><strong>Single vs. half ropes</strong></p>
<p>Generally speaking half ropes offer several advantages over single ropes. While climbing they allow lower rope drag because one can alternate clipping according to route so that ropes go straighter line. Half ropes also offer &#8220;naturally&#8221; longer rappelling distances due to two strands. In single rope system one needs to compensate that with a tag line. Further more half ropes offer redundancy in case of a fall or when rope gets damaged for some reason. Yet despite the two strands these two rope systems, i.e. half ropes vs. single with tag line, weigh about the same (single + tag = 75-100g/m vs. 2*half = 76-84g/m). In terms of weigh the only positive side with the single ropes is the fact that leader doesn&#8217;t have to carry the tag line. However in my opinion this advantage is diminished by higher rope drag, even on steep ice where you usually get to climb relatively straight lines. So based on above the only matter left to discuss is the impact force.</p>
<p>There&#8217;s been plenty of discussion about the impact forces. While on the surface half ropes seem to have lover impact forces, they&#8217;re actually measured with different standards. Tests with singles are being done by using 80kg weight, whereas half ropes are measured only with 55kg. For this reason some people claim that half ropes actually generate higher impact forces to the protection than single ropes. As there&#8217;s no comprehensive data on how <a title="Half ropes" href="http://www.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;limit=500&amp;browse=1&amp;tab=0&amp;searchword=&amp;val_cat-typ=226-59-65-106-239&amp;226-59-65-106-239=Climbing|Ropes|Half">half ropes</a> perform as <a title="Single ropes" href="http://www.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;limit=500&amp;browse=1&amp;tab=0&amp;searchword=&amp;val_cat-typ=226-59-65-106-239-240&amp;226-59-65-106-239-240=Climbing|Ropes|Single">single ropes</a>, one way to look into topic is to take a look at the <a title="Multiple standards ropes (half and single)" href="http://www.tribevine.com/products?open=true&amp;ids=10209,4058,4608,4600,4601,4660,4615&amp;title=Single">ropes that conform both standards </a>and then compare the results to ones that conform just one standard. Lets take a look at the specifications of multiple standards ropes first (the data is from <a title="The best information source for mountain gear" href="http://www.tribevine.con">www.tribevine.com</a>, a climbing gear database that among other things has the specifications of <a title="Ropes in www.tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;limit=500&amp;browse=1&amp;tab=0&amp;searchword=&amp;val_cat-typ=226-59-65-106&amp;226-59-65-106=Climbing|Ropes">several hundred ropes</a>).</p>
<table width="100%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><strong>Rope</strong></td>
<td><strong>Diameter</strong></td>
<td><strong>Weight</strong></td>
<td><strong>Single</strong></td>
<td><strong>Half</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Millet Absolute Pro rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/10209/Millet/Absolute%20Pro">Millet Absolute Pro</a></td>
<td>9.0mm</td>
<td>54g/m</td>
<td>7.8kN</td>
<td>5.9kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Beal Joker rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4058/Beal/Joker">Beal Joker</a>*</td>
<td>9.1mm</td>
<td>53g/m</td>
<td>8.2kN</td>
<td>6.0kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Edelweiss Performance rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4608/Edelweiss/Performance">Edelweiss Performance</a></td>
<td>9.2mm</td>
<td>53g/m</td>
<td>8.2kN</td>
<td>6.0kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Bluewater Ropes Dominator rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4600/Bluewater%20Ropes/Dominator">Bluwater Ropes Dominator</a></td>
<td>9.4mm</td>
<td>55g/m</td>
<td>8.29kN</td>
<td>6.61kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Bluewater Ropes Hyalite rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4601/Bluewater%20Ropes/Hyalite">Bluewater Ropes Hyalite</a></td>
<td>9.4mm</td>
<td>55g/m</td>
<td>8.29kN</td>
<td>6.61kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Edelrid Sports Swift rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4660/Edelrid%20Sports/Swift%208.9%20mm">Edelrid Sports Swift</a></td>
<td>8.9mm</td>
<td>52g/m</td>
<td>8.8kN</td>
<td>?kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Mammut Serenity rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4615/Mammut/Serenity">Mammut Serenity</a></td>
<td>8.9mm</td>
<td>52g/m</td>
<td>9.5kN</td>
<td>?kN</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><small>Table above: Multipe standards ropes that conform both UIAA single and half specifications</small></p>
<p>So while this is manufacturer&#8217;s advertized specifications and definitely involve some creative rounding etc. there&#8217;s at least a one conclusion that can be made. Lower single impact force leads to lower half impact force and other way around. Based on above one could expect that a half rope that has lower impact force than the ones above, would also have lower impact force when measured as a single. Also the impact force ratio of single to half seems to be somewhere between 0.7-0.8. So lets take a look at some <a title="Light half ropes" href="http://www.tribevine.com/products?open=true&amp;ids=4057,4059,4053,4051,4204,4208,4311,4732,4710,10152,4207,6908,4061&amp;title=Half">light half ropes</a>, <a title="Low impact force single ropes" href="http://www.tribevine.com/products?open=true&amp;ids=6966,4584,4679,6426,6425,4642,4586,4645&amp;title=Single">low impact force single ropes</a> and compare them to the above multiple standards ropes then. For half ropes, I&#8217;ve calculated the single impact force values using the ratio above and shown in parenthesis.</p>
<table width="100%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><strong>Rope</strong></td>
<td><strong>Diameter</strong></td>
<td><strong>Weight</strong></td>
<td><strong>Single</strong></td>
<td><strong>Half</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Metolius Monster Ropes 9.2 Rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4679/Metolius/Monster%20Ropes%209.2">Monster Ropes 9.2</a></td>
<td>9.2mm</td>
<td>53g/m</td>
<td>6.8kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Beal Ice Line rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4059/Beal/Ice%20Line">Beal Ice Line</a></td>
<td>8.1mm</td>
<td>42g/m</td>
<td>(6.1-7.0kN)</td>
<td>4.9kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Tendon Master 9.4 rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4642/Tendon/9.4%20Master">Tendon Master 9.4</a></td>
<td>9.4mm</td>
<td>58g/m</td>
<td>7.0kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="DMM Climbing Prodigy rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/6425/DMM%20Climbing/Prodigy%2010mm">DMM Climbing Prodigy</a></td>
<td>10.0mm</td>
<td>64g/m</td>
<td>7.1kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="DMM Climbing Statement Rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/6426/DMM%20Climbing/Statement%2010mm">DMM Climbing Statement</a></td>
<td>10.0mm</td>
<td>66g/m</td>
<td>7.1kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Petzl Dragonfly rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/6908/Petzl/8.2%20Dragonfly">Petzl Dragonfly</a></td>
<td>8.2mm</td>
<td>42g/m</td>
<td>(6.3-7.2kN)</td>
<td>5.07kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Tendon Ambition 10.0 rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4645/Tendon/10.0%20Ambition">Tendon Ambition 10.0</a></td>
<td>10.0mm</td>
<td>65g/m</td>
<td>7.2kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Petzl Zephyr Rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/6966/Petzl/Zephyr%2010.3">Petzl Zephyr</a></td>
<td>10.3mm</td>
<td>67g/m</td>
<td>7.28kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Beal Booster III Rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4584/Beal/Booster%20III">Beal Booster III</a>*</td>
<td>9.7mm</td>
<td>63g/m</td>
<td>7.3kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Beal Tiger rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4586/Beal/Tiger">Beal Tiger</a></td>
<td>10.0mm</td>
<td>63g/m</td>
<td>7.3kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Roca Migú 8 rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4732/Roca/Mig%C3%BA%208">Roca Migu 8</a></td>
<td>7.9mm</td>
<td>41g/m</td>
<td>(6.5-7.4kN)</td>
<td>5.2kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Edelweiss Oxygen rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4204/Edelweiss/Oxygen">Edelweiss Oxygen</a></td>
<td>8.2mm</td>
<td>42g/m</td>
<td>(6.5-7.4kN)</td>
<td>5.2kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="C.A.M.P. Plekton rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/10152/C.A.M.P./Plekton%208.2">C.A.M.P. Plekton</a></td>
<td>8.2mm</td>
<td>42g/m</td>
<td>(6.5-7.4kN)</td>
<td>5.2kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Beal Apollo II rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4592/Beal/Apollo%20II">Beal Apollo II</a>*</td>
<td>11.0mm</td>
<td>75g/m</td>
<td>7.7kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Millet Absolute Pro rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/10209/Millet/Absolute%20Pro">Millet Absolute Pro</a></td>
<td>9.0mm</td>
<td>54g/m</td>
<td>7.8kN</td>
<td>5.9kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Tendon Ambition 7.9 rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4053/Tendon/7.9%20Ambition">Tendon Ambition 7.9</a></td>
<td>7.9mm</td>
<td>40g/m</td>
<td>(7.0-8.0kN)</td>
<td>5.6kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Sterling Rope Fusion Photon rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4710/Sterling%20Rope/Fusion%20Photon">Sterling Rope Fusion Photon</a></td>
<td>7.8mm</td>
<td>41g/m</td>
<td>(7.0-8.0kN)</td>
<td>5.6kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Tendon Master 7.8 rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4051/Tendon/7.8%20Master">Tendon Master 7.8</a></td>
<td>7.8mm</td>
<td>38g/m</td>
<td>(7.1-8.1kN)</td>
<td>5.7kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Metolius Monster Ropes 7.8 rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4061/Metolius/Monster%20Ropes%207.8">Metolius Monster Ropes 7.8</a></td>
<td>7.8mm</td>
<td>38g/m</td>
<td>(7.1-8.1kN)</td>
<td>5.7kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Singing Rock Gemini rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4311/Singing%20Rock/Gemini%207.9">Singing Rock Gemini</a></td>
<td>7.9mm</td>
<td>39g/m</td>
<td>(7.1-8.1kN)</td>
<td>5.7kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Beal Joker rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4058/Beal/Joker">Beal Joker</a>*</td>
<td>9.1mm</td>
<td>53g/m</td>
<td>8.2kN</td>
<td>6.0kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Edelweiss Performance rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4608/Edelweiss/Performance">Edelweiss Performance</a></td>
<td>9.2mm</td>
<td>53g/m</td>
<td>8.2kN</td>
<td>6.0kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Bluewater Ropes Dominator rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4600/Bluewater%20Ropes/Dominator">Bluewater Ropes Dominator</a></td>
<td>9.4mm</td>
<td>55g/m</td>
<td>8.29kN</td>
<td>6.61kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Bluewater Ropes Hyalite rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4601/Bluewater%20Ropes/Hyalite">Bluewater Ropes Hyalite</a></td>
<td>9.4mm</td>
<td>55g/m</td>
<td>8.29kN</td>
<td>6.61kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Millet Alpin Lite rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4207/Millet/Alpine%20Lite">Millet Alpin Lite</a></td>
<td>7.9mm</td>
<td>41g/m</td>
<td>(7.3-8.3kN)</td>
<td>5.8kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Mammut Phoenix rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4057/Mammut/8.0%20Phoenix">Mammut Phoenix</a></td>
<td>8.0mm</td>
<td>41g/m</td>
<td>(7.5-8.6kN)</td>
<td>6.0kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Sterling Ropes Marathon Pro rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4595/Sterling%20Rope/Marathon%20Pro">Sterling Ropes Marathon Pro</a>*</td>
<td>10.1mm</td>
<td>63g/m</td>
<td>8.6kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Sterling Ropes Marathon Mega rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4708/Sterling%20Rope/Marathon%20Mega">Sterling Ropes Marathon Mega</a>*</td>
<td>11.0mm</td>
<td>79g/m</td>
<td>8.7kN</td>
<td>n/a</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Edelrid Sports Swift rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4660/Edelrid%20Sports/Swift%208.9%20mm">Edelrid Sports Swift</a></td>
<td>8.9mm</td>
<td>52g/m</td>
<td>8.8kN</td>
<td>6.7kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Mammut Serenity rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4615/Mammut/Serenity">Mammut Serenity</a></td>
<td>8.9mm</td>
<td>52g/m</td>
<td>9.5kN</td>
<td>?kN</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a title="Edelrid Sports Apus rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4208/Edelrid%20Sports/Apus">Edelrid Sports Apus</a></td>
<td>7.8mm</td>
<td>42g/m</td>
<td>(8.4-9.6kN)</td>
<td>6.7kN</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><small>Table above: Light half ropes, low impact force single ropes and ropes that conform the both UIAA standard compared against each other.</small></p>
<p>So following the line of reasoning of the first table, it would seem that at least quite a few half ropes should offer comparable impact forces when tested as a single. Furthermore while most of the multiple standards ropes are light, their impact forces are left behind most light half ropes.</p>
<p>The final thing to consider is how the lead fall differs from each other between the two systems. While a fall with a single rope is rather straight forward process, i.e. you always fall to the single strand, the issue is at least in theory somewhat complicated with the half ropes. With half ropes the number of strands that actively work while stopping the fall depends on distance to last piece of protection and rope stretch. In most cases half ropes act just like single ropes, i.e. one strand takes the wast majority of the force. In case of half ropes the rope stretch typically falls between 25% and 40%. If the average screw distance is about 6 meters, this means that you have to have at least two screws and 15 meters of rope out until second strand can even theoretically come into play. In other words you&#8217;re already well above the UIAA test case fall factors, i.e. the impact forces are a lot smaller. For this reason the way two strands interact doesn&#8217;t have relevance in normal climbing. However when leaving from the stance, where both strands are actually clipped through the anchor the issue is a bit different. There both strands work together and impact forces are a lot higher, worse still the fall factor is the worst possible. It seems that half ropes demonstrate impact forces in the range of 8-10kN in twin configuration.</p>
<p>Based on this, together with the other half ropes related benefits, at least my opinion is clear, <strong>half ropes is the way to go</strong>. However with half ropes it&#8217;s even more important to make sure you don&#8217;t fall against your stance. There&#8217;s a serious worst case scenario involved. This leaves also a difficult choice, weather to go with the lowest impact force half (Beal Ice Line) or the lightest one (Tendon Master 7.8 / Metolius Monster Ropes 7.8, basically a same rope manufactured by Lanex)? While 1kN difference in impact forces doesn&#8217;t feel dramatic it is probably larger in worst case twin configuration. On the other hand 500g / 10% difference (two strands, 70m long, 38g/m vs. 42g/m) doesn&#8217;t feel huge, but still considerable. Also the Tendon&#8217;s nano dry treatment is said to be great (though I don&#8217;t have much first hand experience, climbed just once with such rope)&#8230; &#8230;Right now Beal Ice Line feels a better bet. Funny enough I&#8217;ve been contemplating between these two ropes for some time now. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Oh, one final note; famous Will Gadd has an interesting <a title="Will Gadd talks about single and half ropes and their impact forces" href="http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2006/11/single-and-half-rope-impact-forces_30.html">article</a> about the impact forces and comparing single ropes against halfs. They also actually did some real world tests, so a bit more scientific than my approximation approach. I have noted the ropes in the table that Will talked about with asterisk (*), with one exception for which I couldn&#8217;t find the specifications. From Will&#8217;s article it comes loud and clear that there&#8217;s plenty of variation as some difference compared to published figures. Despite these uncertainties, I&#8217;m still for half ropes for multi-pitch waterfall ice climbing.</p>
<p><strong>My current ropes</strong></p>
<p>Finally a few words of my current ropes and their uses.</p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/ropes/p1030006.jpg" title="Endigs of Beal Rando twin, Edelweiss Sharp halfs and Beal Joker multiple standards ropes." class="shutterset_singlepic1014" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/1014_watermark_450x_p1030006.jpg" alt="p1030006" title="p1030006" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: Rope endings with markings, I had to cut Joker due some nicks.</small></p>
<ol>
<li><a title="Edelweiss Sharp 8.5 half rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4060/Edelweiss/Sharp%208.5mm">Edelweiss Sharp 8.5</a> &#8211; They&#8217;ve served me well for quite a few years. They&#8217;re still the ones I use when climbing multiple pitches. They&#8217;re a bit heavy and bulky, but the quality, especially from the durability perspective has been great. They provide fairly good handling characteristics, and dry treatment worked well; There&#8217;s still some left.</li>
<li><a title="Beal Joker multiple standards rope (half, twin, single)" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4058/Beal/Joker">Beal Joker</a> &#8211; It was originally my &#8220;soft landing&#8221; plan to half ropes. I haven&#8217;t used Joker too much, mostly while top roping either indoors or while ice climbing on short falls. Still Joker is a good quality rope and even though some people consider it slipery, especially when new, I like the &#8220;slippery feeling&#8221; of it &#8211; it&#8217;s easy to feed and rappel with. Also the dry treatment is good.</li>
<li><a title="Beal Rando twin rope" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product/4685/Beal/Rando">Beal Rando</a> &#8211; My short and light twin rope for glacier travels and mountaineering routes that do not require serious climbing with belay. It again a good quality, but most importantly in a very light, only 36g/m package.</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>The web-stores that sell these things:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at US Outdoor Store">Metolius Monster Ropes 9.2 - <a title="Metolius Monster Ropes 9.2 at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/metolius-monster-9.2mm-rope">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Metolius Monster 9.2 rope at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Metolius-Monster-9.2-mm-Rope-Dry_10100944_10208_10000001_-1_">Moosejaw</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at US Outdoor Store">Beal Ice Line - <a title="Beal Ice Line rope at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/beal-ice-line-8.1mm-rope">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Beal Ice Line rope at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/mountaineering-gear/p-18807-d-1258-v-72943/beal/ice-line-81mm-golden-dry.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Beal Ice Line rope at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/bealiceline81mmgoldendry2x60m-p-1096.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Moosejaw">Tendon Master 9.4 &#8211; <a title="Tendon Master 9.4 rope at justropes.com" href="http://www.justropes.com/store/p/1027-Tendon-Master-9-4mm-x-70m-Complete-Shield-SBS.aspx">Justropes.com</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports">DMM Climbing Prodigy -  ?</li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports">DMM Climbing Statement &#8211; <a title="DMM Climbing Statement rope at REI" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Ropes/Single-Ropes/Statement-10mm-Rope">Needle Sports</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Varuste.net">Petzl Dragonfly - <a title="Petzl Dragon Fly rope at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/petzl-dragonfly-half-rope">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Petzl Dragonfly rope at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Petzl-Dragonfly-Rope_10030921_10208_10000001_-1_">Moosejaw</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Moosejaw">Tendon Ambition 10.0 &#8211; <a title="Tendon Ambition 10.0 rope at justropes.com" href="http://www.justropes.com/store/p/1041-Tendon-Ambition-10mm-x-70m-Protect-Shield-SBS.aspx">Justropes.com</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports">Petzl Zephyr - <a title="Petzl zephyr rope at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.usoutdoor.com/petzl-charlet/petzl-zephyr-103mm-rope/">US Outdoor Store</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports">Beal Booster III - <a title="Beal Booster III rope at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/beal-booster-iii-9.7mm-golden-dry-rope">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Beal Booster III rope at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-26640-d-1240-v-103633/beal/booster-iii-97-mm-x.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Beal Booster III rope at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/bealboosteriii97mmdrycover70m-p-2646.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Beal Booster III at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=42287&amp;nimi=Beal+Booster+III+9,7mm+DC+60m">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Beal Booster III rope at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Beal-Booster-III-9.7mm-GoldenDry-Rope_10031320_10208_10000001_-1_">Moosejaw</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at US Outdoor Store">Beal Tiger - <a title="Beal Tiger rope at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-22905-d-1240-v-88607/beal/tiger-10-mm-x-70.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Beal Tiger rope at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/bealtiger10mmdrycover70m-p-6344.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Beal Tiger rope at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Beal-Tiger-10mm-Dry-Rope_10096050_10208_10000001_-1_">Moosejaw</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Backcountry.com">Roca Migú 8 &#8211; ?</li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Moosejaw">Edelweiss Oxygen - <a title="Edelweiss Oxygen rope at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/edelweiss-oxygen-climbing-rope-8.2mm">Backcountry</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports">C.A.M.P. Plekton -  ?</li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Moosejaw">Tendon Ambition 7.9 &#8211; <a title="Tendon Ambition 7.9 rope at justropes.com" href="http://www.justropes.com/store/p/1007-Tendon-Ambition-7-9mm-x-70m-Complete-Shield.aspx">Justropes.com</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Varuste.net">Sterling Rope Fusion Photon &#8211; <a title="Sterling Rope Photon rope at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/ProductDisplay?partNumber=10173102&amp;searchDisplay=1&amp;langId=-1&amp;storeId=10208&amp;searchTerm=sterling+photon&amp;catalogId=&amp;cmCat=-10020&amp;searchBean=com.moosejaw.commerce.search.beans.SearchResultViewBean%40112b1bcf">Moosejaw</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Moosejaw">Tendon Master 7.8 &#8211; <a title="Tendon Master 7.8 rope at justropes.com" href="http://www.justropes.com/store/p/1000-Tendon-Master-7-8mm-x-60m-Protect-Shield.aspx">Justropes.com</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at US Outdoor Store">Metolius Monster Ropes 7.8 - <a title="Metolius Monster 7.8 rope at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Metolius-Monster-7.8-mm-Rope-Dry_10100943_10208_10000001_-1_">Moosejaw</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at US Outdoor Store">Singing Rock Gemini &#8211; <a title="Singing Rock Gemini at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-33464-d-1242-v-133033/singingrock/gemini-79-mm-x-30.html">Barrabes</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports">Millet Alpin Lite - <a title="Millet Alpin Lite rope at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/millet-alpine-lite-twin-rope-7.9mm">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Millet Alpin Lite rope at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/milletalpinelite79mm2x50m-p-4402.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Varuste.net">Millet Absolute Pro- <a title="Millet Absolute Pro rope at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/millet-absolute-pro-single-rope-9mm">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Millet Absolute Pro rope at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/milletabsolutepro9mm-p-44637.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports">Mammut Phoenix &#8211; <a title="Mammut Phoenix Rope at backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/mammut-phoenix-climbing-rope-8mm">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Mammut Phoenix rope at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Ropes/Half-Ropes/Phoenix-8mm-Superdry-MAM-SDPHO">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="Mammut Phoenix rope at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=1319&amp;nimi=Mammut+Phoenix+8.0mm+SuperdryCoating+50m">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Mammut Phoenix rope at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Mammut-Phoenix-8mm-Rope_10085478_10208__-1_">Moosejaw</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at US Outdoor Store">Beal Joker &#8211; <a title="Beal Joker rope at backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/beal-joker-9.1mm-dry-cover-rope">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Beal Joker rope at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/bealjokerdrycover91x80m-p-2125.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Beal Joker rope at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=36534&amp;nimi=Beal+Joker+9,1mm,+70m+k%F6ysi">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Beal Joker rope at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Beal-Joker-9.1-DryCover-Rope_10031333_10208_10000001_-1_">Moosejaw</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Moosejaw">Edelweiss Performance &#8211; <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at REI" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10248&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rei.com%2Fproduct%2F792817%2Fpetzl-attache-3d-hms-screwgate-carabiner">Varuste.net</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports">Bluewater Ropes Dominator &#8211; <a title="Bluewater Ropes Dominator rope at justropes.com" href="http://www.justropes.com/store/p/297-BLUEWATER-Ropes-Dominator-9-4mm-x-70m-Double-Dry.aspx">Justropes.com</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Varuste.net">Bluewater Ropes Hyalite - ?</li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Telemark-Pyrenees">Edelrid Ropes Apus - <a title="Edelrid Apus rope at Shelby" href="http://www.shelby.fi/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41_47_137&amp;products_id=1676">Shelby</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Varuste.net">Edelrid Ropes Swift - <a title="Edelrid Swift rope at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-31289-d-1240-v-123164/edelrid/swift-89-mm-x-70.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Edelrid Swift rope at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/edelridswift89mm60m-p-45460.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports">Mammut Serenity &#8211; <a title="Mammut Serenity rope at REI" href="http://www.rei.com/product/799196/mammut-serenity-coatingfinish-superdry-89mm-x-70m-dry-rope">REI</a>, <a title="Mammut Serenity rope at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Ropes/Single-Ropes/Serenity-Superdry-89mm-MAM-SDSERN">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="Mammut Serenity at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/mammutserenitycoatingfinish89mmx70m-p-3522.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Mammut Serenity rope at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=18342&amp;nimi=Mammut+Serenity+8.9+mm+Coating+60+m">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Mammut Serenity rope at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.usoutdoor.com/mammut/mammut-serenity-89-climbing-rope/">US Outdoor Store</a></li>
<li title="Petzl Attache 3D at Moosejaw">Beal Rando - <a title="Beal Rando rope at backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/beal-rando-30m-dry-cover-rope">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Beal Rando rope at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/mountaineering-gear/p-1327-d-1258-v-4206/beal/rando-golden-dry-8-mm.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Beal Rando rope at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/bealrandodynamicgoldendry8mmx30m-p-1111.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Beal Rando rope at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=41039&amp;nimi=Beal+Rando+8mm+GD+k%F6ysi+30m">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Beal Rando rope at Shelby" href="http://www.shelby.fi/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41_47_137&amp;products_id=1875">Shelby</a></li>
</ol>
<p><strong>A few more images of my ropes:<br />
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			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2012/01/ice-climbing-ropes-and-single-vs-half/933/feed</wfw:commentRss>
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		<title>My first over 4000m solo accent on Weissmies</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/10/my-first-over-4000m-solo-accent-on-weissmies/980</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/10/my-first-over-4000m-solo-accent-on-weissmies/980#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Oct 2011 14:57:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[trip stories]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Almagellerhütte]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Solo accent]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Switzerland]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weissmies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weissmiess hütte]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=980</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I promised to write a bit about the summer trip to the Switzerland, but it took a while to have spare time for such. In any case here&#8217;s the first article. Originally I had  plan to head to Eiger, but the weather turned out to be such, that only very few areas in the whole [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I promised to write a bit about the summer trip to the Switzerland, but it took a while to have spare time for such. In any case here&#8217;s the first article. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  Originally I had  plan to head to Eiger, but the weather turned out to be such, that only very few areas in the whole Switzerland enjoyed decent climbing weather. As a result I ended up to Saas valley, where I did my first over 4000m peak solo accent on Weismiess.</p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/solo-accent-on-weissmies/p1030070.jpg" title="" class="shutterset_singlepic1002" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/1002_watermark_450x_p1030070.jpg" alt="p1030070" title="p1030070" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: A view from the route to Weissmies.</small></p>
<p>Overall the accent was pretty straight forward. It was an easy PD-rated route and took about 7h from Allmagellerhütte to Weissmiess hütte. A bit of snow, one steeper scramble and then the glacier. Out of these the most interesting parts were the scramble, glacier and perhaps the ridge just before the top. I started a lot later than about 40 other groups that were heading up. Thise, despite the weather concerns, proved to be a good choice. Good mainly because weather stayed OK (weather worried me the most) and I was able to do the whole route in solitude. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  Throughout the trip there was visible trail established by the earlier parties. However as there were some signs of fairly recent avalanches and spots where I had to jump over crevasses, the glacier part was still pretty exciting for a solo climber. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Overall it&#8217;s really pleasant to climb in Switzerland. The huts are well equipped and good quality, you don&#8217;t have to carry all the food and there&#8217;s plenty of options. If you&#8217;re looking for first solo accent Weissmies seems also be pretty good choice. While being exciting enough, it&#8217;s fairly visited and the route is fairly straight forward. I&#8217;m sure though that there are plenty of other good options as well, but Weissmies worked for me just fine.</p>
<p><strong>Location details:</strong></p>
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<p><strong>Few images from the trip below:<br />
</strong>
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		<title>Different kinds of carabiners</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/07/different-kinds-of-carabiners/930</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/07/different-kinds-of-carabiners/930#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 02 Jul 2011 14:55:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[equipment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ange]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Attache 3D]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Austrialpin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ball lock]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Black Diamond]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[carabiner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DMM]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dogbone]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Easy Classic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Helium]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kong]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[locking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[non-locking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Petzl]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Positron]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quickdraw]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[screw gate]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shield]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sling]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wild Country]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[William]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=930</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[During the time I&#8217;ve been climbing, I&#8217;ve bumped into many kinds of carabiners and quickdraws. I have gradually built a certain view on them, especially what comes to ice climbing. As a result, while waiting for the next season and upcoming Outdoor Show, I thought to write down my thoughts about them + my experiences [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>During the time I&#8217;ve been climbing, I&#8217;ve bumped into many kinds of carabiners and quickdraws. I have gradually built a certain view on them, especially what comes to ice climbing. As a result, while waiting for the next season and upcoming Outdoor Show, I thought to write down my thoughts about them + my experiences on carabiners and quickdraws that belong to my &#8220;standard&#8221; rack.</p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/p1020881.jpg" title="" class="shutterset_singlepic924" >
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</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: There they are, my standard rack carabiners and quickdraws.<br />
</small></p>
<p><strong>What&#8217;s important:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Clearclip nose &#8211; It makes it just that much easier to grab it from your harness, as well as clip off whether it&#8217;s screw, rope or webbing. Right now there&#8217;s a wide selection of light clearclip carabiners available. There&#8217;s just no reason to get anything else.</li>
<li>Weight &#8211; Weight reflects directly to everything you do. In carabiners, especially what comes to carabiners used in quickdraws, it adds up fast. It&#8217;s not perhaps a reason to replace your old carabiners, but when ever you buy new ones, you should get light ones.</li>
<li>No auto-locking mechanisms &#8211; Auto-locking mechanisms tend to freeze up and generate a great deal of difficulties. I&#8217;ve been in a situation where my Petzl william ball lock froze up to the point that I had to spend about 30 minutes to get it open. I&#8217;m not planning to get to such situation again.</li>
<li>Smooth and acurate gate operation &#8211; It&#8217;s important while clipping, also note that if it&#8217;s locking carabiner, the screw operation should be smooth. Often the &#8220;smoothness&#8221; translates to quality and quality affects overall durability and safety of your gear.</li>
</ul>
<p>People, especially ones that do plenty of rock climbing, talk about durability too. In my opinion it&#8217;s not as much of an issue on ice, as there&#8217;s lot less dirt &#8211; thus carabiners do not wear down as much. I actually have different set of carabiners for ice, indoor and rock climbing exactly for this reason. Well, as ice climbing is my primary sport, my rock and gym carabiners are mostly ones I&#8217;ve purchased for ice climbing&#8230; even the auto-lockers which I purchased before I knew their freezing problems. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p><strong>Quickdraws and carabiners on my standard ice rack</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>3x <a title="Black Diamond Positron Screw Gate in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=2601&amp;name=Black%20Diamond%20%20Positron%20Screwgate">Black Diamond Positron Screw Gate</a> <em>(weight 56g)</em> &#8211; I use these for building anchors. While a bit old already, they&#8217;re pretty light and proven to be reliable good quality pieces of equipment.</li>
<li>3x <a title="Petzl Attache 3D in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4478&amp;name=Petzl%20%20Attache%203D">Petzl Attache 3D</a> <em>(weight 55g)</em> &#8211; My newer set of anchor building carabiners. Slightly larger but still lighter than Positrons. Good grip on locking screw.</li>
<li>1x <a title="Mammut Bionic Mytholito in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4481&amp;name=Mammut%20Bionic%20Mytholito">Mammut Bionic Mytholito</a> <em>(weight 58g)</em> &#8211; My belay carabiner. Slightly hevier than Attache, but I like having different kinds of carabiners for different purposes. As anchor building carabiners get in touch with protection and tend to develop sharp edges it&#8217;s good idea to keep them away from belay loop. The locking screw is slightly slippery, but other vice good quality.</li>
<li>1x <a title="Mammut Bionic HMS in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=9710&amp;name=Mammut%20Bionic%20HMS">Mammut Bionic HMS</a> (weight 72g) &#8211; My large anchor building carabiner; the one I tie clove hitches and use for organizing stuff. Attache is kind of large enough, but this one is larger.The locking screw is slightly slippery, but other vice good quality.</li>
<li>2x <a title="Petzl Ange in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4337&amp;name=Petzl%20%20Ange">Petzl Ange S</a> (weight 28g) &#8211; Couple of extra carabiners for general purpose clipping, can use them for extendable draw or clipping things like bottles and cameras where ever I need to. Some people consider these too small, but I haven&#8217;t had any problems with them. They&#8217;re really light and clipping feel is excellent.</li>
<li>1x <a title="Austrialpin Easy Classic in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=9713&amp;name=Austrialpin%20Easy%20Classic">Austrialpin Easy Classic</a> (weight 48g) &#8211; I use it in the fixed cow&#8217;s tail I have in my harness, which I occasionally clip to my ice tool. While not the lightest, it provides good grip and clip on and off are surprisingly easy.</li>
<li>5x Modified <a title="Wild Country Helium Quickdraw in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=3853&amp;name=Wild%20Country%20%20Helium%20Quickdraw">Wild Country Helium Quickdraw</a> <em>(weight 70-74g)</em> &#8211; Newer half of my quickdraws. I replaced the original dogbone with <a title="Edelrid Dyneema Quickdraw Sling 8mm in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=5811&amp;name=Edelrid%20Sports%20Dyneema%20Quickdraw%20Slings%208%20mm">Edelrid 8mm dogbone</a>, because the rubber carabiner holder in original ones just couldn&#8217;t take low temperatures. Besides Edelrid dogbones are slightly lighter. Besides the dogbone problem Heliums are excellent quick draws.</li>
<li>5x <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=2272&amp;name=Black%20Diamond%20%20Positron%20Quickdraw">Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw</a> <em>(weight 105g)</em> &#8211; My old set of quickdraws. While a bit heavy, they&#8217;ve served me well. Clipping is okay and the rubber thingy that keeps the carabiner in place is durable.</li>
<li>2x Custom made Quickdraw, <a title="Mammut Bionic Wire Safe Gate in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4332&amp;name=Mammut%20Bionic%20Wire%20Safe%20Gate">Mammut Bionic Wiresafe Gate</a> (rope end), <a title="Edelrid Dyneema Quickdraw Sling 8mm in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=5811&amp;name=Edelrid%20Sports%20Dyneema%20Quickdraw%20Slings%208%20mm">Edelrid 8mm dogbone</a>, <a title="Petzl Ange in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4337&amp;name=Petzl%20%20Ange">Petzl Ange S</a> (protection end) <em>(weight 65g)</em> &#8211; I eneded up doing couple of these funky looking light quickdraws after I had a few extra carabiners, which I had acquired while in search and testing the best clear clip carabiner. While I like the shape of the Bionic Wire Safe gates, they&#8217;re a bit heavier than <a title="Wild Country Helium at tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4327&amp;name=Wild%20Country%20%20Helium">Wildcountry Heliums</a>. Other vice Mammut Wiresafe Gate carabiners are equally good as other good quality light clear clip carabiners. And yes, that&#8217;s lighter than any in-stock quickdraw with full sized carabiner on rope end.</li>
<li>1x Custom made shock absorbing Quickdraw, <a title="DMM Shield in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4328&amp;name=DMM%20Climbing%20%20Shield">DMM Shield</a> Carabiners, <a title="E-climb Dissip in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4398&amp;name=E-climb%20%20dissip">E-Climb Dissip</a> shock absorbing sling <em>(weight 116g)</em> &#8211; Pretty much the same story as above, just that I ended up using the DMM shields on shock absorber. DMM Shield works and feels pretty much like Mammut Wiresafe Gates, which according to some sources are actually manufactured by DMM.</li>
</ul>
<p>Right now I&#8217;m relaying almost always to &#8220;ready made&#8221; quickdraws. This being said, many of my friends have recommended that I should replace a few of my quickdraws with extendable slings. Second odd thing is that I have many quickdraws. Part of the explanation is the fact that we climb using long 70m ropes, but other part is the fact that I like having a few extra quickdraws just in case. Which of course mitigates, in certain extent, the weight savings from light stuff. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  Well, depending on route quite often I&#8217;ll leave a few Positron Quickdaws to the ground.</p>
<p><strong>Other carabiners I currently have</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>3x <a title="Kong HMS Classic in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=5277&amp;name=KONG%20%20H.M.S%20Classic">Kong HMS Classic</a> (weight 86g) &#8211; My old anchor building carabiner set. While these are quite heavy compared to the lightest modern carabiners they offer clear clip nose and good build quality.</li>
<li>3x <a title="Petzl William in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=3978&amp;name=Petzl%20%20William">Petzl William</a> Ball Lock (weight 94g) &#8211; Carabiners that I use mainly in indoor climbing and ocassionally in rock. They&#8217;re large and easy to handle, but pretty heavy. The quality is good though and the locking mechanism is excellent for indoor climbing.</li>
<li>2x <a title="Petzl William in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=3978&amp;name=Petzl%20%20William">Petzl William</a> Screw Gate (weight 90g) &#8211; My backup belay carabiners. Quite often they still get carried to the bottom of the fall, but used mostly on indoor walls and on rock. Good quality, but heavy. The size makes it easy for organizing things.</li>
<li>1x Old Austrialpin &#8211; I used to have more of these, but they&#8217;ve gotten lost during the years. Due to the fact that it has the nose, I hardly ever use them anymore. On some top roping anchors, when putting up several of them and running out of other type of carabiners perhaps. I would definitely instruct people to stay away of nosed carabiners with the exception of very light carabiners cliped to the rope.</li>
<li>1x G<a title="Grivel Gamma K2W in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=5443&amp;name=Grivel%20Gamma%20K2W">rivel Gamma K2W</a> &#8211; Came with <a title="Grivel Speedy in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4737&amp;name=Grivel%20%20Speedy">Speedy ice screw</a>. It&#8217;s good quality and it&#8217;s not unreasonably heavy, but has a nose. It&#8217;s not a huge issue as it&#8217;s rope end carabiner, but still prefer clear clips also as rope end carabiners.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Carabiners I consider best of the class right now</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Small non-locker &#8211; <a title="Petzl Ange S in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4337&amp;name=Petzl%20%20Ange">Petzl Ange S</a>; it&#8217;s the lightest clear clip nosed carabiner, overall a good quality and pretty easy clipping.</li>
<li>Full sized non-locker &#8211; <a title="Wild Country Helium in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4327&amp;name=Wild%20Country%20%20Helium">Wildcountry Helium</a>; it&#8217;s the lightest full sized clear clip nosed carabiner, besides the clipping feel is great and gate opening good.</li>
<li>Small locker -<a title="DMM Phantom Screw Gate" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4488&amp;name=DMM%20Climbing%20Phantom%20Screwgate"> DMM Phantom Screwgate</a>; it&#8217;s either lightest or one of the lightest screw gate carabiners out there. DMM is known for its quality, so a good choice. My next anchor building carabiners are probably going to be these.</li>
</ul>
<p>I kind of thought to list also best of class full sized and large sized carabiners, but then decided that I haven&#8217;t researched them enough to make up a well founded opinion.</p>
<p><strong>Carabiner comparisons</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><a title="Light non-locking clear clip carabiners" href="http://www.tribevine.com/products?open=true&amp;ids=4332,4337,5035,6419,4327,4328,7676,5136,9713,5443&amp;title=Non-Locking">Light non-lockin clear clip carabiners and the ones mentioned in this article</a></li>
<li><a title="Light locking carabiners in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/products?open=true&amp;ids=4488,5752,4496,5056,4492,2460,5062,5364,4478,5033,4490,4386,4254,7676,5136,4494,3978,5277,9710,4481&amp;title=Locking">Light locking carabiners and the ones mentioned in this article</a></li>
<li><a title="Light Quickdraws in tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/products?open=true&amp;ids=4399,5691,5031,6420,3853,2272&amp;title=Quickdraws">Light clear clip quickdraws and the ones mentioned in this article</a></li>
</ul>
<p><strong>The web-stores that sell these things:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>Austrialpin Easy Classic &#8211; <a title="Austrialpin Easy Classic at Mountainshop" href="http://www.mountainshop.fi/kauppa/product_info.php?products_id=627">Mountainshop</a>, <a title="Austrialpin Easy Classic at Outdoor-Ranger" href="http://www.outdoor-ranger.co.uk/austrialpin-easy-classic-straight-karabiner-polish-p-10479.html">Outdoor-Ranger</a></li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Black Diamond Positron Screw Gate &#8211; <a title="Black Diamond Positron Screw Gate at REI" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10248&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rei.com%2Fproduct%2F710216%2Fblack-diamond-positron-screwgate-carabiner">REI</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Screw Gate at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10060&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fblack-diamond-positron-screwgate-carabiner">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Screwgate at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-15242-d-1283-v-54638/black-diamond/positron-keylock-screwgate.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Screwgate at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/blackdiamondpositronscrewgate-p-1127.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Screwgate at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=3906&amp;nimi=Black+Diamond+Positron+Screwgate,+HMS">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Positron Screwgate at Camu" href="http://www.camu.fi/pages/kiipeily/seinakiipeily/sulkurenkaat_lukittavat/positronscrewgate.html">Camu</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Screwgate at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10573&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.usoutdoor.com%2Foutlet%2Fblack-diamond-positron-screwgate-carabiner.html">US Outdoor Store</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Screwgate at Eastern Mountain Sports" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10785&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ems.com%2Fproduct%2Findex.jsp%3FproductId%3D3659315">Eastern Mountain Sports</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron at GearX" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10537&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fgearx.com%2Fblack-diamond-positron-screwgate-biner.html">GearX</a></li>
<li>Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw &#8211; <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw at REI" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10248&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rei.com%2Fproduct%2F809731%2Fblack-diamond-positron-quickdraw-set">REI</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10060&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fblack-diamond-positron-quickdraw">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-19021-d-1281-v-73498/black-diamond/positron-set-_-10-mm.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/blackdiamondpositron12cmquickdraw-p-44416.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=3133&amp;nimi=Black+Diamond+Positron+Quickdraw+12+cm">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Black Diamon Positron Quickdraw at Camu" href="http://www.camu.fi/pages/kiipeily/seinakiipeily/jatkot/positronquickdraw10cm.html">Camu</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw at Moosejaw" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10086&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.moosejaw.com%2Fmoosejaw%2Fshop%2Fproduct_Black-Diamond-Positron-Quickdraw_10119124_10208_10000001_-1_">Moosejaw</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10573&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.usoutdoor.com%2Foutlet%2Fblack-diamond-positron-quickdraw.html">US Outdoor Store</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw at Eastern Mountain Sports" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10785&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ems.com%2Fproduct%2Findex.jsp%3FproductId%3D11755808">Eastern Mountain Sports</a>,  <a title="Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw at GearX" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10537&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fgearx.com%2Fblack-diamond-positron-quickdraw-18-cm-2011-tron.html">GearX</a></li>
<li>DMM Phantom Screwgate &#8211; <a title="DMM Phantom Screwgate at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Karabiners/Standard-Screwgates/Phantom-Keylock-Screwgate-DMM-PHANTOMSG">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="DMM Phanton Screwgate at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-26509-d-1283-v-103220/dmm/phantom-screwgate.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="DMM Phantom Screwgate at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10573&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.usoutdoor.com%2Foutlet%2Fdmm-phantom-screwgate-caribeaner.html">US Outdoor Store</a></li>
<li>DMM Shield - <a title="DMM Shield at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Karabiners/Standard-Karabiners/Shield-DMM-SHIELDKRAB">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="DMM Shield at Eastern Mountain Sports" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10785&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ems.com%2Fproduct%2Findex.jsp%3FproductId%3D3667259">Eastern Mountain Sports</a></li>
<li>E-climb Dissip - <a title="E-climb dissip at E-climb" href="http://www.e-climb.com/cintas_en/dissip_en">E-climb</a></li>
<li>Edelrid Dyneema Dogbone &#8211; <a title="Edelrid Dyneema Express Quickdraw Sling at Shelby" href="http://www.shelby.fi/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41_138&amp;products_id=1751">Shelby</a></li>
<li>Grivel Gamma K2W &#8211; <a title="Black Diamond Express at GearX" href="http://gearx.com/black-diamond-express-ice-screw.html">?</a></li>
<li>Kong HMS Classic -<a title="Kong HMS Classic at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-20456-d-1283-v-77547/kong/hms-classic-screw_lock.html">Barrabes</a></li>
<li>Mammut Bionic HMS &#8211; <a title="Mammut Bionic HMS at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/mammutbionichms-p-4503.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Mammut Bionic HMS at Eastern Mountain Sports" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10785&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ems.com%2Fproduct%2Findex.jsp%3FproductId%3D3658604">Eastern Mountain Sports</a></li>
<li>Mammut Bionic Myhtolito - <a title="Mammut Bionic Mytholito at backcountry.com" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10060&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fmammut-bionic-mytholito-screwgate-carabiner">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Mammut Bionic Mytholito at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/mammutbionicmytholito-p-4505.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Mammut Bionic Mytholito at Moosejaw" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10086&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.moosejaw.com%2Fmoosejaw%2Fshop%2Fproduct_Mammut-Bionic-Mytholito-HMS-Carabiner_10119966_10208__-1_">Moosejaw</a>, <a title="Mammut Bionic Mytholito at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10573&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.usoutdoor.com%2Foutlet%2Fmammut-bionic-mytholito-screwlock-carabiner.html">US Outdoor Store</a>, <a title="Mammut Bionic Mytholito at Eastern Mountain Sports" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10785&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ems.com%2Fproduct%2Findex.jsp%3FproductId%3D3658603">Eastern Mountain Sports</a>,  <a title="Mammut Bionic Mytholito at GearX" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10537&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fgearx.com%2Fmammut-bionic-mytholito-lock-biner.html">GearX</a></li>
<li>Mammut Bionic Wire Safe Gate &#8211; <a title="Mammut Bionic Wire Safe Gate at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=18124&amp;nimi=Mammut+Bionic+Wire+Safe+Gate">Varuste.net</a></li>
<li>Petzl Ange S &#8211; <a title="Petzl Ange at REI" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10248&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rei.com%2Fproduct%2F822648%2Fpetzl-ange-s-wiregate-carabiner">REI</a>, <a title="Petzl Ange at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10060&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fpetzl-ange-s-ultra-lite-wire-gate-carabiner">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Petzl Ange at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Karabiners/Standard-Karabiners/Ange-Karabiner---Small">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="Petzl Ange S at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-29510-d-1285-v-114814/petzl/ange-s.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Petzl Ange at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/petzlanges-p-46575.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Petzl Ange at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=36078&amp;nimi=Petzl+Ange+MonoFil,+S">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Petzl Ange at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10573&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.usoutdoor.com%2Foutlet%2Fpetzl-ange-small-carabiner.html">US Outdoor Store</a>, <a title="Petzl Ange at Eastern Mountain Sports" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10785&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ems.com%2Fproduct%2Findex.jsp%3FproductId%3D11326342">Eastern Mountain Sports</a>,  <a title="Petzl Ange at GearX" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10537&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fgearx.com%2Fpetzl-ange-s-carabiner.html">GearX</a>, <a title="Petzl Ange S at Shelby" href="http://www.shelby.fi/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41_48_89&amp;products_id=1769">Shelby</a></li>
<li>Petzl Attache 3D &#8211; <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at REI" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10248&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rei.com%2Fproduct%2F792817%2Fpetzl-attache-3d-hms-screwgate-carabiner">REI</a>, <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10060&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fpetzl-attache-3d-screw-lock-carabiner">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Canyoning/Attache-3D-HMS-Screwgate-PET-ATT3D">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/rock-climbing-gear/p-25686-d-1283-v-99420/petzl/attache-3-d-screw_lock.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/petzlattache3d-p-8412.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=38682&amp;nimi=Petzl+Attache+3D+ScrewLock">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at Moosejaw" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10086&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.moosejaw.com%2Fmoosejaw%2Fshop%2Fproduct_Petzl-Attache-3D-Carabiner_10085047_10208__-1_">Moosejaw</a>, <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10573&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.usoutdoor.com%2Foutlet%2Fpetzl-attache-3d-caribiner.html">US Outdoor Store</a>, <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at Eastern Mountain Sports" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10785&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ems.com%2Fproduct%2Findex.jsp%3FproductId%3D3665001">Eastern Mountain Sports</a>, <a title="Petzl Attache 3D at Shelby" href="http://www.shelby.fi/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41_48_88&amp;products_id=1390">Shelby</a></li>
<li>Petzl William &#8211; <a title="Petzl William at REI" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10248&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rei.com%2Fproduct%2F737864%2Fpetzl-william-screwgate-carabiner">REI</a>, <a title="Petzl William at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10060&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fpetzl-william-locking-carabiner-ptz0079">Backcountry</a>,<a title="Petzl William at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/work_at_height--rescue-gear/p-24119-d-1751-v-93409/petzl/william-screw_lock.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Petzl William at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/petzlwilliamtriact-p-2094.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Petzl William at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=32447&amp;nimi=Petzl+William+Screw+Lock">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Petzl William at Moosejaw" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10086&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.moosejaw.com%2Fmoosejaw%2Fshop%2Fproduct_Petzl-William-Screw-Lock-Carabiner_10026327_10208_10000001_-1_">Moosejaw</a>, <a title="Petzl William at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10573&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.usoutdoor.com%2Foutlet%2Fpetzl-william-lock-carabiner.html">US Outdoor Store</a>, <a title="Petzl William at Eastern Mountain Sports" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10785&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ems.com%2Fproduct%2Findex.jsp%3FproductId%3D3665027">Eastern Mountain Sports</a>,  <a title="Petzl William at GearX" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10537&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fgearx.com%2Fpetzl-william-screw-lock.html">GearX</a></li>
<li>Wild Country Helium &#8211; <a title="Wild Country Helium at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10060&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fwild-country-helium-clean-wire-carabiner">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Wild Country Helium at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Karabiners/Standard-Karabiners/Helium-Clean-Wire-Krab-WCO-HEL">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="Wild Country Helium at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/wildcountryheliumcleanlock-p-1943.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Wild Country Helium at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10573&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.usoutdoor.com%2Foutlet%2Fwild-country-helium-wire-carabiner.html">US Outdoor Store</a>,  <a title="Wild Country Helium at GearX" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10537&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fgearx.com%2Fwild-country-helium-wire-carabiner-red-anodized.html">GearX</a></li>
<li>Wild Country Helium Quickdraw &#8211; <a title="Black Diamond Express at REI" href="http://www.rei.com/webservices/rei/DisplayStyle/761270">REI</a>, <a title="Wild Coumyry Helium at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10060&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backcountry.com%2Fwild-country-helium-10cm-quickdraw-5-pack-wdc0022">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Wild Country Helium Quickdraw at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Quickdraws/Helium-Quickdraw-WCO-HELQD">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="Wild Country Helium Quickdraw at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/wildcountryhelium10cmqdset-p-1942.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Wild Country Helium Quickdraw at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10573&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.usoutdoor.com%2Foutlet%2Fwild-country-helium-wire-quickdraw.html">US Outdoor Store</a>,  <a title="Wild Country Helium Quickdraw at GearX" href="http://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&amp;mi=10537&amp;pw=38215&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fgearx.com%2Fwild-country-helium-wire-10cm-quickdraw.html">GearX</a></li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Few closeup shots of the screws</strong><strong>:<br />
</strong>
<div class="ngg-galleryoverview" id="ngg-gallery-35-930">

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								<img title="p1020891" alt="p1020891" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020891.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020897" alt="p1020897" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020897.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020898" alt="p1020898" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020898.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020901" alt="p1020901" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020901.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020905" alt="p1020905" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020905.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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			<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/p1020907.jpg" title="My modified Wild Country Helium Quickdraws." class="shutterset_set_35" >
								<img title="p1020907" alt="p1020907" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020907.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020911" alt="p1020911" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020911.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020913" alt="p1020913" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020913.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020915" alt="p1020915" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020915.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020918" alt="p1020918" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020918.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020922" alt="p1020922" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020922.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020923" alt="p1020923" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020923.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020924" alt="p1020924" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020924.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020925" alt="p1020925" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020925.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020927" alt="p1020927" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020927.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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								<img title="p1020929" alt="p1020929" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/carabiners-and-quickdraws/thumbs/thumbs_p1020929.jpg" width="200" height="150" />
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		<title>Coming up: Eiger, Jungfrau and Outdoor Show</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/06/coming-up-eiger-jungfrau-and-outdoor-show/925</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/06/coming-up-eiger-jungfrau-and-outdoor-show/925#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jun 2011 13:49:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[trip plans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eiger]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jungfrau]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[outdoor show]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=925</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It&#8217;s been long since my last post. While it&#8217;s summer and there&#8217;s no ice climbing ahead, it seems that there will be couple of interesting events coming up. First of all, I&#8217;m getting my self to the Eiger / Jungfrau region and going to do some climbing there. Actually it seems that I&#8217;m able to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It&#8217;s been long since my last post. While it&#8217;s summer and there&#8217;s no ice climbing ahead, it seems that there will be couple of interesting events coming up. First of all, I&#8217;m getting my self to the Eiger / Jungfrau region and going to do some climbing there. Actually it seems that I&#8217;m able to spend most of the July there. Second, I&#8217;m going to <a title="Outdoor Show" href="http://www.outdoor-show.com/">Outdoor Show</a> that&#8217;s held between 14th and 16th of July in Friedrichshafen Germany. It&#8217;s the biggest gear industry event in the world. I&#8217;m sure to get plenty of insight on what comes to gear for upcoming season. So stay tuned!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Racking slings</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/05/racking-slings/910</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/05/racking-slings/910#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 May 2011 14:03:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[tips and tricks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[racking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sling]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=910</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Someone at rockclimbing.com asked about how to rack slings nicely. While this is not a big secret, and most of you probably are already aware of it, I decided to put up short instructions post about it. Here&#8217;s how I do it: Method one (+slightly faster, +slightly easier to undo, +can be used on short [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Someone at rockclimbing.com asked about how to rack slings nicely. While this is not a big secret, and most of you probably are already aware of it, I decided to put up short instructions post about it. Here&#8217;s how I do it:</p>
<p><strong>Method one</strong> (<em>+slightly faster, +slightly easier to undo, +can be used on short slings, -takes more carabiner space, -leaves the sling &#8220;twisted&#8221;, -needs carabiner to stay in order, -harder to unclip from carabiner if the sling is very long</em>):</p>
<ol>
<li>Fold up the sling so that it&#8217;s not too long.</li>
<li>Twist the sling a few times</li>
<li>Clip the twisted sling from both ends to the carabiner</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Method two</strong> (<em>+takes less carabiner space, +does not need a carabiner to stay in order, +leaves the sling more &#8220;straight&#8221;, +easier to unclip from carabiner if the sling is long, -slightly slower to do, -cannot be used on short slings</em>):</p>
<ol>
<li>Grab sewn end of the sling, leave a few centimeters of it above your hand</li>
<li>Roll the sling over your hand, until there&#8217;s 20-30 cm left</li>
<li>Wrap the remaining sling around the sling ball and stick the sling end through it</li>
<li>Clip both ends of sling to the carabiner</li>
</ol>
<p>Very simple, very neat. It keeps the slings in order, they don&#8217;t tangle and they&#8217;re easy to unfold (no knots or anything like that). A few images about the procedure below, note the carabiner, it&#8217;s a new <a title="Stubai Atomy carabiner" href="http://www.stubai-bergsport.com/atomy_karabiner_with_screwgate_anod__produkte_art_aWQ9ZnVscG1lcyZsPWVuZ2xpc2gmc3VjaGU9JmVpbnRyYWc9ODIyMTUz.html">Stubai Atomy</a> <a href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=5696&amp;name=Stubai%20Mountaineering%20Atomy"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-917" title="Stubai Atomy Carabiner at Tribevine.com" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/2011/05/ultrasmall_t-button-logo_13.12.2010.png" alt="" width="16" height="16" /></a>, that&#8217;s lightest 26kN rated carabiner. I&#8217;m not quite sure if one needs the extra strength, but the carabiner is still nice, the brass screw operation is exceptionally smooth. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>

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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Different kind of screws</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/04/different-kind-of-screws/880</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/04/different-kind-of-screws/880#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Apr 2011 08:46:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[equipment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[reviews]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Black Diamond]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[e-climb]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[express]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Grivel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Klau]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quickdraw]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Speedy]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=880</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have recently been using three different kind of screws; Black Diamond Express , E-climb klau and Grivel Speedy (side by side comparison available at tribevine.com). It&#8217;s been revelation for me how different they are. I mean they&#8217;re all good, but not in every situation. While Express is easiest to get started, especially on hard [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have recently been using three different kind of screws; <a title="Black Diamond Express screw" href="http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/ice-protection/express-ice-screw/">Black Diamond Express</a> <a title="Black Diamond Express at tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=2842&amp;name=Black%20Diamond%20Express%20Ice%20Screws"><img title="Black Diamond Express at Tribevine.com" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/2010/12/ultrasmall_t-button-logo_13.12.2010.png" alt="" width="16" height="16" /></a>, <a title="E-climb screws" href="http://www.e-climb.com/tornillos_en/">E-climb klau</a> <a title="E-climb klau at tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4393&amp;name=E-climb%20klau"><img title="E-climb klau at Tribevine.com" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/2010/12/ultrasmall_t-button-logo_13.12.2010.png" alt="" width="16" height="16" /></a> and <a title="Grivel's ice screws" href="http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/ice_screws/synoptic">Grivel Speedy</a> <a title="Grivel Speedy at tribevine.com" href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4737&amp;name=Grivel%20%20Speedy%20Ice%20Screws&amp;e=true"><img title="Grivel Speedy at Tribevine.com" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/2010/12/ultrasmall_t-button-logo_13.12.2010.png" alt="" width="16" height="16" /></a> (side by side comparison available at <a title="Comparison cart : Equipment &gt; Climbing &gt; Protection &gt; Ice Screws ; Items: 3 | Tribevine:" href="http://www.tribevine.com/products?open=true&amp;ids=4737,2842,4393&amp;title=Screws%20in%20climbingextreme.com%20article">tribevine.com</a>). It&#8217;s been revelation for me how different they are. I mean they&#8217;re all good, but not in every situation. While Express is easiest to get started, especially on hard ice, klau and Speedy are a lot easier to drive; klau perhaps even easier than Speedy. To make the decision even more difficult, each of the screws has its own unique features that others are missing. It&#8217;s kind of starting to seem that I need several sets of screws. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':-(' class='wp-smiley' />  Well, here&#8217;s a roundup of my findings each of them.</p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/screw-comparison/p1020462.jpg" title="The handles of the screws." class="shutterset_singlepic898" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/898_watermark_450x_p1020462.jpg" alt="p1020462" title="p1020462" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: All the three different screws.</small></p>
<p><strong>Black Diamond Express</strong> &#8211; On a stance, due to its two carabiner holes Express is obvious choice. I&#8217;m grabbing it also on cold hard ice in a difficult situation where I need a fast placement, especially if the placement location is suboptimal, i.e. I need to reach out further than I&#8217;d like (or thought due hollow spot).</p>
<ul>
<li>Easiest to get started, harder the ice, bigger the difference</li>
<li>Has two carabiner holes (handy at stance)</li>
<li>Though the knob in the new model is larger, is still kind of small</li>
<li>High quality finishing</li>
<li>Racks well with other &#8220;standard&#8221; shaped screws</li>
<li>Set of these with appropriate amount of quickdraws weights about 200g more than the lightest alternative (provided that you use light quick draws, i.e. 70g  each)</li>
</ul>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/screw-comparison/p1020470.jpg" title="Handle of Black Diamond Express." class="shutterset_singlepic905" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/905_watermark_450x_p1020470.jpg" alt="p1020470" title="p1020470" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: Black Diamond Express screw.</small></p>
<p><strong>E-climb klau</strong> &#8211; It&#8217;s fastest placing screw on soft ice; it&#8217;s obvious; I&#8217;ll grab it in difficult situation when the weather is warm and ice is soft.</p>
<ul>
<li>Easiest to drive once started</li>
<li>By far the lightest screw on a rack</li>
<li>Has replaceable tip</li>
<li>Furthest reaching folding handle</li>
<li>Carabiner hole can accommodate two carabiners</li>
<li>Tip seems to rust easier than competition</li>
<li>Racks well with other &#8220;standard&#8221; shaped screws</li>
</ul>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/screw-comparison/p1020469.jpg" title="Handle of E-climb klau." class="shutterset_singlepic904" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/904_watermark_450x_p1020469.jpg" alt="p1020469" title="p1020469" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: E-climb klau screw.</small></p>
<p><strong>Grivel Speedy</strong> &#8211; Great combination of features, excels in all conditions, I&#8217;ll use it when everything is flowing well and I want to save the extra move (and thus time) that it takes to find and clip a quick draw.</p>
<ul>
<li>While not the lightest as such, you&#8217;ll save the weight of a one carabiner</li>
<li>Very easy to drive, bites reasonably well in all conditions</li>
<li>Tip protector that doubles up as handle</li>
<li>Has integrated quickdraw, that saves you from searching and clipping a quick draw from your rack (it&#8217;s surprising how big the difference is)</li>
<li>Large diameter carabiner hole, can take several carabiners</li>
<li>Very high quality finishing</li>
<li>Not perhaps as straight forward to rack as &#8220;standard&#8221;-shaped screws (though I haven&#8217;t had any problems with racking).</li>
</ul>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/screw-comparison/p1020468.jpg" title="Tip protector of Grivel Speedy on the tip." class="shutterset_singlepic903" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/903_watermark_450x_p1020468.jpg" alt="p1020468" title="p1020468" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: Grivel Speedy screw.</small></p>
<p>So based on these experiences it seems that I&#8217;m going to build a core of my rack around Grivel&#8217;s Speedys, though before final decision, I need more experience of them on very hard ice. In addition there will be couple of short, one medium and one long Black Diamond Expresses; unless of course I&#8217;ll find Speedys better on hard ice as well. The long and medium Expresses are for building stances and abalakovs. Then there will be a few E-climb klaus, just for those warm days in case I need something longer than the longest standard integrated quickdraw of Speedy (over 30cm).</p>
<p><strong>Then the web-stores that sell these things:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>Black Diamond Express &#8211; <a title="La Sportiva Spantik at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/la-sportiva-spantik-mountaineering-boot-mens"></a><a title="Black Diamond Express at REI" href="http://www.rei.com/webservices/rei/DisplayStyle/761270">REI</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Express at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-express-ice-screws">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Express at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Winter-Climbing-Equipment/Ice-Protection/Ice-Screws/Express-Ice-Screw-BDI-TEXPN">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Express at Barrabes.com" href="http://www.barrabes.com/shop/snow--ice-climbing-gear/p-20631-d-1324-v-78208/black-diamond/express-ice-screw-16-cm.html">Barrabes</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Express at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/blackdiamondexpressicescrew10cmto22cm-p-732.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Express at Varuste.net" href="http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=18121&amp;nimi=Black+Diamond+Express+Ice+Screw+16+cm">Varuste.net</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Express at Camu" href="http://www.camu.fi/shop/kiipeily/vuorikiipeily/jaa_ja_lumivarmistukset/expressicescrew16cm.html">Camu</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Express at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Turbo-Express-Ice-Screws_10036068____">Moosejaw</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Express at US Outdoor Store" href="http://www.usoutdoorstore.com/outlet/black-diamond-express-ice-screws.html">US Outdoor Store</a>, <a title="Black Diamond Express at Eastern Mountain Sports" href="http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3659368">Eastern Mountain Sports</a>,  <a title="Black Diamond Express at GearX" href="http://gearx.com/black-diamond-express-ice-screw.html">GearX</a></li>
<li>E-climb klau &#8211; <a title="E-climb klau at E-climb" href="http://www.e-climb.com/tornillos_en/">E-climb</a></li>
<li>Grivel Speedy - <a title="Grivel Speedy at Backcountry.com" href="http://www.backcountry.com/grivel-helix-spd-ice-screw">Backcountry</a>, <a title="Grivel Speedy at Needle Sports" href="http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Winter-Climbing-Equipment/Ice-Protection/Ice-Screws/Speedy-Ice-Screw-15cm-with-20cm-tape-GRI-SPEEDYM">Needle Sports</a>, <a title="Grivel Speedy at Telemark-Pyrenees" href="http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/en/grivelhelixspeedy20-p-7582.html">Telemark-Pyrenees</a>, <a title="Grivel Speedy at Moosejaw" href="http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Grivel-Helix-Speedy-20-cm-Ice-Screw_10090258____">Moosejaw</a><a title="Yates Zipper at GearX" href="http://gearx.com/yates-zipper-screamer.html"></a></li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Few closeup shots of the screws</strong><strong>:<br />
</strong>
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		<slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>It&#8217;s finally happening &#8211; we&#8217;re putting tribevine.com out</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/03/its-finally-happening-were-putting-tribevine-com-out/869</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/03/its-finally-happening-were-putting-tribevine-com-out/869#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Mar 2011 13:49:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[miscellaneous]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[competition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[open beta]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tribevine]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=869</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Some of you might already know that I&#8217;ve been working with this new project called www.tribevine.com. Well, actually it&#8217;s not that new and now it&#8217;s finally happening, we&#8217;re putting the open beta out. The past two years have been interesting, we&#8217;ve spent a lot of time developing and designing a site that would fit the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Some of you might already know that I&#8217;ve been working with this new project called www.tribevine.com. Well, actually it&#8217;s not that new and now it&#8217;s finally happening, we&#8217;re putting the open beta out. The past two years have been interesting, we&#8217;ve spent a lot of time developing and designing a site that would fit the needs of a mountain enthusiasts, like myself. I&#8217;m absolutely thrilled that we&#8217;re finally ready to put out open. The site will open at April 4th 2011. Simultaneously with the launch a competition which rewards the best and most valuable contributors of the service each month will be announced. Though I can&#8217;t yet disclose the exact prizes, I can say that pretty interesting quality gear will be given out. So stay tuned.</p>
<p>Meanwhile you might read what the people at <a title="Tribevine To Launch Public Beta" href="http://www.arcticstartup.com/2011/03/29/tribevine-to-launch-public-beta">arcticstartup.com</a> said about us and take a look at the original <a title="Tribevine.com Open Beta Launch Coming Up" href="http://www.tribevine.com/press_29032011.php">press release</a>. Here are also a few examples of what kind of information and into what extent the service is going to be able to offer. All of these can be compared side by side as well: <a title="Half Ropes at Tribevine.com" href="http://beta.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;q=typeid:239">Half Ropes</a> (53 different), <a title="Single Ropes at Tribevine.com" href="http://beta.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;q=typeid:240">Single Ropes</a> (125 different), <a title="Climbing Harnesses at Tribevine.com" href="http://beta.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;q=typeid:65">Climbing Harnesses</a> (132 different), <a title="Mountaineering Boots at Tribevine.com" href="http://beta.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;q=typeid:5">Mountaineering Boots</a> (58 different), <a title="Technical Axes at Tribevine.com" href="http://beta.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;q=typeid:110">Technical Axes</a> (55 different), <a title="Belay Devices at Tribevine.com" href="http://beta.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;q=typeid:107">Belay Devices</a> (67 different) and <a title="Avalanche Transceivers" href="http://beta.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&amp;q=typeid:54">Avalanche Transceivers</a> (15 different).</p>
<p><em>Update 30.3.2011:</em> You might also like to see what <a title="Introducing TribeVine.com" href="http://mountainenthusiast.com/2011/03/30/introducing-tribevine-com/">mountainenthusiast.com</a> said about the launch. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> .</p>
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		<slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Brand new images from the Kebnekaise</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/03/brand-new-images-from-the-kebnekaise/859</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/03/brand-new-images-from-the-kebnekaise/859#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 19 Mar 2011 09:04:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[miscellaneous]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Images]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kebnekaise]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sweden]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=859</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I just got back from Kebnekaise. I&#8217;m working on a longer article, but mean while check all the 135 images from the trip. Picture above: Maija reaches the South Peak. Picture above: Getting ready to ski down slope called Hydrologen to the Tarfala valley with Kebnekaise crew. Picture above: First half of the 270m of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just got back from Kebnekaise. I&#8217;m working on a longer article, but mean while check all the 135 images from the trip.</p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/kebnekaise-march-2011/p1020036.jpg" title="" class="shutterset_singlepic850" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/850_watermark_450x_p1020036.jpg" alt="p1020036" title="p1020036" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: Maija reaches the South Peak.</small></p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/kebnekaise-march-2011/p1010878.jpg" title="Preparing to go down into &quot;Hidden valley&quot;, one of the best runs I've done so far." class="shutterset_singlepic778" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/778_watermark_450x_p1010878.jpg" alt="p1010878" title="p1010878" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: Getting ready to ski down slope called Hydrologen to the Tarfala valley with Kebnekaise crew.</small></p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/kebnekaise-march-2011/p1020078.jpg" title="Here we are, the whole crew... except the photographer (I). :-)" class="shutterset_singlepic854" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/854_watermark_450x_p1020078.jpg" alt="Here we are, the whole crew... except the photographer (I). :-)" title="Here we are, the whole crew... except the photographer (I). :-)" />
</a>
<br />
<small>Picture above: First half of the 270m of ice climbed.</small></p>
<p><strong>Location details:</strong></p>
<p><iframe width="450" height="350" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" src="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?vpsrc=6&amp;ctz=-180&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;msa=0&amp;msid=209741443969462034968.0004609a823d71a0f28b4&amp;t=p&amp;ll=67.889243,18.586807&amp;spn=0.090458,0.30899&amp;z=11&amp;output=embed"></iframe><br /><small>View <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?vpsrc=6&amp;ctz=-180&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;msa=0&amp;msid=209741443969462034968.0004609a823d71a0f28b4&amp;t=p&amp;ll=67.889243,18.586807&amp;spn=0.090458,0.30899&amp;z=11&amp;source=embed" style="color:#0000FF;text-align:left">www.climbingextreme.com</a> in a larger map</small></p>
<p><strong>Few images from the trip below:<br />
</strong>
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		<title>A trip to Kebnekaise ahead</title>
		<link>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/02/a-trip-to-kebnekaise-ahead/844</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/02/a-trip-to-kebnekaise-ahead/844#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Feb 2011 17:02:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>juho</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[climbing spots]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Locations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trip plans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kebnekaise]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plans]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sweden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tribevine]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=844</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The long waited spring trip is ahead. After contemplating several options we ended up to go to Kebnekaise (once again). I guess it&#8217;s the ease of access and good facilities there that made us lean towards it. Well, of course the most important reason is the great mountain environment there. Picture above: Shot from the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The long waited spring trip is ahead. After contemplating several options we ended up to go to Kebnekaise (once again). I guess it&#8217;s the ease of access and good facilities there that made us lean towards it. Well, of course the most important reason is the great mountain environment there. </p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/kebnekaise-spring-2010/img_0132.jpg" title="" class="shutterset_singlepic377" >
	<img class="ngg-singlepic ngg-left" src="http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/377_watermark_450x_img_0132.jpg" alt="img_0132" title="img_0132" />
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<br />
<small>Picture above: Shot from the last year&#8217;s trip, we&#8217;re on our way to south peak.</small></p>
<p>Last year we climbed the south peak, now we&#8217;re planning for the north peak. Furthermore I think that I&#8217;ve spotted a nice and possibly unclimbed multi-pitch ice climbing route from the nearby mountain as well. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  I&#8217;m heading to Kebnekaise a bit earlier than the others, so I&#8217;ll have plenty of time to scout the area. Like last year, the good folks at Tribevine.com are also involved (see event invitation at <a title="Tribevine.com facebook fan page" href="http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/tribevine/102009629837584">facebook</a>. In short it seems that I&#8217;m going to post plenty of ski touring and ice climbing images from the trip soon. <img src='http://www.climbingextreme.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' />  Meanwhile you might want to check the <a title="Kebne Easter Ski Touring and Climbing 2010" href="http://www.climbingextreme.com/2010/05/kebne-easter-ski-touring-and-climbing-2010/505">report</a> from the 2010 trip.</p>
<p><strong>Location details:</strong><br />
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