1. For me it seems that I need a new set of half ropes. I’m currently using Edeldweiss Sharp 8.5  (8.5mm, 48g/m, 5.4kN, 9 falls) and I’ve been pretty happy with their quality. This being said as I’m mostly climbing ice I perhaps don’t need the edge protection and other durability features they have. As a result, I’ve been considering a lighter low impact force ice climbing focused alternatives such as: 1) Mammut 8.0 Phoenix  (8.0mm, 41g/m, 6.0kN, 7 falls) – the favorite of Aljaz Anderle , 2) Beal Ice Line  (8.1mm, 42g/m, 4.9kN, 7 falls) – the favorite of many of my friends and 3) Metolius Monster Ropes 7.8  (7.8mm, 38g/m, 5.7kN, 6 falls) – the lightest of these three.
2. A second thing I’m really looking forward to is the Petzl Ange S/L carabiners  and the quick draws based on these. Aljaz Anderle  tipped us about these few months ago and I’ve been waiting these to arrive ever since. They’re super light (S model 28g, L model 34g) and have a clear clip nose. In short they combine the best of traditional and wire gate carabiners. Unfortunately, it’s not 100% sure that they could be shipped by Christmas. Meanwhile the closest alternatives are Wildcountry Helium  (33g) – the lightest full sized clear clip nose carabiner, Mammut Bionic Wire Safe Gate  (34g), DMM Shield  (35g) – fairly light clear clip nose wire gate carabiner and CAMP Nano 23  (23g) – super light, but does not have clear clip nose.
3. New climbing boots. Well, there’s nothing wrong with the old ones, except they’re heavy and old. As I like double boots (easier to dryup if you’re spending several days in a tent), I would love to have pair of La Sportiva Spantiks . Their fit seemed to be superb, they’re fairly light (being a double boot) and they’re suprisingly acurate.
4. So far I haven’t used screamers, but many of my friends have recommended them. What I’ve heard though there are a few brands that produce screamers the Yates screamers are the ones to go. There are several different types of those; I am planning to go with “Zipper” Screamers  – they offer the greatest reduction in system peak loading.
5. Though I have a couple of good headlamps and I’ve been happy with them the new Tikka XP² Core  headlamp with rechargeable batteries, its user programmable lightning options and over 60 lumens lightning power seems tempting. I guess I’m not going to buy one, at least not quite yet, but if you need a new headlamp this one definitely deserves to take a look at.
6. I’m planning to add some new stoppers to my gear. DMM Wallnuts  are reported having superior shape over other alternatives and recommended for instance by Tapio Alhonsuo , one of the best ice climbers in Finland – that’s a good choice to go if you need passive protection.
7. It’s sometimes really cold up here. Therefore I’ve considered Ortovox’s Merino 320 jacket  to replace my traditional fleece garments and add some extra warmth during those cold days. Ortovox also features a range of excellent thick base layer merinos, Merino 240 Long Sleeve  and Short Pants  that are on my future gear list.
8. My Suunto Core  was lost last year at Kebnekaise (I still can’t figure how and when), therefore there’s a need for a new one. Though Core had a few button problems (I had my unit replaced a few times) I’m still considering Suunto. Their design and user interface are just great. Luckily, Suunto has come out with a new line of premium Sports Watches; the Elementum range. I’m planning to go with Suunto Elementum Terra . I just hope that they’ve got rid of the button problems.
9. Finally, one needs a device to capture the great climbing moments. As my trusty old Canon G1 just broke down that’s probably the first bit of new “gear” I’m investing into. A climber’s camera should be light, be weather resistant and it should take good pictures. Unfortunately light and weather resistant does not seem to go with the same package, at least not when it comes to taking good pictures. Therefore I’m going with light and good pictures alternative, perhaps added with extra water tight casing. The two I’ve been considering are Canon Powershot S95 and Panasonic Lumix LX5. Both are good cameras; can take HD video, have extremely good f-values and are light. Interestingly there’s a sister model of Lumix LX5 in Leica’s camera lineup, but I guess the extra a few hundreds do not make sense, as the hardware and optics are the same.

Then the web-stores that sell these things:

1. Edeldweiss Sharp 8.5 – GearX, US Outdoor Store
2. Mammut 8.0 Phoenix - Backcountry, Needle Sports, Varuste.net, GearX, Moosejaw, US Outdoor Store
3. Beal Ice Line - Backcountry, Needle Sports, Barrabes, Telemark-Pyrenees, Moosejaw
4. Metolius Monster Ropes 7.8 - Moosejaw
5. Petzl Ange S/L – Varuste.net
6. Wildcountry Helium - Backcountry, Needle Sports, Telemark-Pyrenees, US Outdoor Store
7. Mammut Bionic Wire Safe Gate – Varuste.net, Draussen.de
8. DMM Shield - Needle Sports, US Outdoor Store
9. CAMP Nano 23 - REI, Backcountry, Needle Sports, Telemark-Pyrenees, Moosejaw
10. La Sportiva Spantik – Backcountry, Needle Sports, Barrabes, Telemark-Pyrenees, Varuste.net, Moosejaw, US Outdoor Store
11. Yates “Zipper” - Needle Sports, GearX
12. Tikka XP² Core - Varuste.net
13. DMM Wallnuts - Backcountry, Needle Sports, Barrabes, Telemark-Pyrenees, GearX
14. Ortovox Merino 320 jacket - Snowshehperd, Pure Sports
15. Ortovox Merino 240 Long Sleeve - Snowshepherd, Pure Sports
16. Ortovox Merino 240 Short Pants - Snowshepherd, Pure Sports
17. Suunto Core - REI, Backcountry, Needle Sports, Barrabes, Telemark-Pyrenees, Varuste.net, Camu, Moosejaw, US Outdoor Store
18. Suunto Elementum Terra - Suunto Watches
19. Canon Powershot S95 - Verkkokauppa.com, Pixmania
20. Panasonic Lumix LX5 - Verkkokauppa.com, Pixmania

Picture above: Beghaus Extrem ski touring gloves.

The requirements for a good ice climbing gloves are diverse and often contradictory. The durability, especially on palm side and fingers is a must. Dexterity, especially when dealing with screws, is required. To make the subject even more difficult there’s dozens of variables in play. One must take into account the weather and climbing conditions; even small things such as gear that’s been used, affect the situation heavily. Gloves should be simultaneously wildly breathable, but offer enough warmth and protection from the elements and at the times freely flowing water. In short, even though most of you (ice climbers) probably know already quite a bit of gloves, I thought to share some of my insights and experiences on the topic; I don’t think it’s possible to know too much about it.

General instructions for glove selection

• You need to have several pairs of them - One pair of breathables for approaches, one pair for climbing and one pair to have a dry pair just in case. Typically I will carry even fourth extra warm pair of mitts, especially if it’s cold, for belaying and hanging around. Sometimes, in very cold conditions, I might carry fifth thin wool pair to provide extra warmth under the standard pair. Furthermore you probably need a different primary climbing glove pair for cold and warm days.
• The ones that you use for climbing need to be super durable - Check the palm side, the extra protected area needs to be extra large and durable enough to take the sliding rope and axes. The protected area should reach from fingers to the top of the hand. Pay attention to stitching and seams, which are usually the weak spots. Typically, in high quality glove, extra durable materials, such as Pittard Armortan on palm itself and Kevlar on palm stitching, are being used.
• The primary climbing pair needs to be able to deal with the water - This means most likely Gore-Tex or some similar water proofing in the glove, and such wrist that can be put on top of the jacket. Well, the wrist part is matter of preference in some extent, but I like to route the water on top of my jacket instead of inside of it. Furthermore there are some other ways of dealing with water, such as neoprene, but as said, I prefer water proof. Also if you KNOW that there will be very little or no liquid water (either flowing or in form of rain / wet snow), you could think of something more breathable (=less water proof).
• They need to be dexterous - The basic principle in climbing cold conditions in order to avoid frost bites is that you wear your gloves all the times. You pour and drink your tea, eat your bread while wearing them, you belay and place your screws while wearing them; you tie the knots while wearing them. Though it’s partly a matter of learning it is also a matter of glove as well. Try to find a pair that feels as dexterous as possible.
• Try them out and perhaps several pairs - Gloves tend to vary from glove to glove slightly, choose the pair that gives the best feeling and dexterity while trying. Preferably try them with your ice tools, as glove padding and some of the axe fangs and triggers might not fit together well.
• Pay attention to details - There needs to be easy way to dry them up (how do you hang them?) and they should be washable. Some people (including I) like ones that have some padding to protect the fingers from bruises. It’s not a bad idea to consider as primary climbing glove, at least for cold days, something that has removable lining and a cord that attaches them to your wrists (you don’t like to lose them when there’s an hour down and three hours up).

Some practical glove experiences / reviews:

• Black Diamond Enforcer gloves – My current primary climbing glove. They are warm; the protective area on palm side is large enough and extends to the fingers. There’s a removable Gore-Tex insert which makes the washing and drying easier. So far the best pair I’ve found.
• Grivel Ice Fall gloves – These were my number one primary climbing pair few seasons back. They’re made of strong enough materials, have finger protection and are water proof. Their overall quality is good. They could breathe better and certain parts of the palm stitching seem to be in areas that experience heavy wear. They’ve been a very good pair in deed. Note that Grivel sizing is extremely small; as a result you probably start trying something that’s at least one size bigger than your usual size.
• Grivel Taa-k-oon gloves – I’ve used these for approaches, cross country ski-in and in very rare occasions warm weather climbing. They are fairly breathable, offer good grip and plenty of dexterity. For me though, they’re too thin for climbing. It’s usually just too cold for them. They’ve served me well for several years though and seem to be good quality. Note the Grivel sizing.
• Bergaus Extrem gloves – My “dry pair”. They’re surprisingly warm and dexterous, the leather is soft and they breathe fairly well. I actually bought these to be my primary climbing gloves, but the problem was the fact that they weren’t hard enough for climbing; seams tear apart when stressed (there were several rips in less than two days of heavy use). I have also frequently used these for ski touring, which is ideal purpose for them (I guess that’s what they are designed for). Despite the design shortages (seam durability) from climbing perspective, they’re extremely good quality gloves.
• Ice Breaker Merino Liner gloves – Liners to add extra warmth during the coldest days of winter. They’re good though add more bulk when worn under Enforcers.
• Salomon Mitts (don’t know the type) – I’ve used Salomon mitts mainly for belaying and while standing around on very cold days. They’re extremely warm, but the materials aren’t water proof and they aren’t durable enough for actual climbing. The slight problem with these is the fact that the material is so thin, that they can get stuck in to your belay device.
• Unknown Fleece / Fiber Fill breathable gloves – I’ve used these mainly for approaches on cold days. They’re warm, light and breathable, but not very durable – a cheapest option of adding warmth for summer mountaineering at Kebnekaise few years back (forgot to bring any gloves). Did the trick and have been in frequent use even though the quality hasn’t been perfect.

Few images of gloves:

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Picture above: Broken Wild Country Helium.

1. Berghaus Extrem gloves
Seams seem to tear apart in heavy use, especially with ropes. They would be great gloves, I love their dexterity and warmth but as their seams may tear apart during a single day, they just aren’t an option for ice climbing. Even while ski touring one needs to be careful when ever handling ropes.

2. Grivel Rambo 4 crampons
The yellow plastic of the active antibots breaks apart easily from its attachment; harder black plastic. I’ve seen this happen practically in every pair of Rambo’s I’ve seen. Despite the problem they’re best ice climbing crampons I know, and with a bit of patience one can fix the problem temporarily by pushing the plastic part back in place.

3. Wild Country Helium Quickdraws
The anti-slip rubber of Helium Quickdraws is too “hard” and therefore breaks in below zero temperatures from the stitching seam. I have a set of five of these and it has happened on everyone except one. Different type of rubber, for instance such that’s been used in Black Diamon’s Positrons would probably fix the problem. Though I like Heliums, they’re not currently the first choice for an ice climber.

4. Sigg Bottle cap
Threads of the cap get eaten by the bottle. To prevent this bottle should not be filled too full, the cap should not be tightened too tight and one should not allow the bottle to freeze.

5. North Face Summit Series Gore-Tex XCR jacket
The watertight zippers of the jacket wear down quite fast in below zero temperatures, especially if there’s plenty of use for the zippers.

6. Black Diamond Ice Clippers and their Xenos ice climbing harness
Ice Clippers slip through the clipper holders of Xenos after a while. In order to avoid that one should avoid too heavy loads (>five screws) and bending the clippers while packing it up. Still if the lip of the Ice Clipper would be just a bit longer or the clipper holder in the harness just a bit stiffer, it would work perfectly.

7. Grivel Manu backpack
The Manu concept, detachable gear loops, is great and I’m using it frequently. The problem though is that with the gear loops only (i.e. backpack removed) the velcro on the back of the gear loops sticks to everything and cause for instance slings to wear faster than I would hope. An extra sheet of something to put on top of the velcro will fix the problem, but perhaps that could integrated to the Manu somehow too.

Few images about the products mentioned:

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Any comments and experiences of similar weak spots are greatly appreciated. I’m sure there are plenty of such around. It’s a great help for fellow climbers to be aware of them.

Here are few findings for the next season:

1. Grivel Cascade – Fresh ice axe replacement blades – These are B-rated, but should be better for ice climbing than Grivel’s T-rated stuff, which excel on mixed routes. The link is not to the Grivel site, for some reason, there are plenty of such Grivel products that aren’t there. The link is to Needlesports, they have a good set of replacement blades.

2. Grivel Double Spring Leash (2 krab version) – It is not really a leash, but flexible runner, which can be attached to the harness to avoid loss of axe.

3. Arc’teryx Gamma MX soft shell jacket - A soft shell jacket, no hood, but ideal for wearing under Goretex or other waterproof shell. There’s also hooded version available, price is pretty steep though typically well over 300€.

4. Arc’teryx Gamma MX soft shell pants - The pants part of the above jacket.

5. Arc’teryx Bucket Liner – A hat that’s compatible with your helmet.

6. Arc’teryx Gamma SV Glove - Like many others, I’ve been looking for perfect ice climbing gloves (have a stock of quite a few already), would these be finally the ones?

7. Black Diamond Avalung II – I’m not absolutely sure if Avalung would be something that I would carry while climbing ice, though there’s certainly occassionally a danger of avalanche around. Anyways, for some reason I’ve been tempted to buy one for a long time.

8. Black Diamond First Shot - An interesting tool for getting the abalakov right for those days when you’ve done it already twice and it still wasn’t good enough.

9. Grivel Speedy – A kind of ice screw quickdraw combination, resulting better safety, reduced weight and faster placement.

10. Petzl Crevasse Rescue Kit – A compact emergency kit that contains everything needed for hauling / ascending in rescue situation.

11. Exped DownMat Pump - Like the award winning down mat, but with integrated pump. I mean, the pumping was the only real problem with these, and now it seems that they have solved it.

12. MSR Lightning Accent snowshoes – I’ve been long drooling over these snow shoes. Unfortunately I’ve already got MSR Denalis and I haven’t therefore really been able to justify the purchase.

13. Valandre Freja sleeping bag – A sleeping bag for cold winter nights, still pretty light. Temperature rating up to -33 in Celsius with weight only about 1,5kg is impressive.

14. Silvretta Freeride 800 AT skis – Recently I’ve been thinking that AT skis might be good alternative for approaches and ascents. This being said though, I guess I would like to have these just because of last season I carried my snowboard around way too much (not while ice climbing ofcourse).

15. Silvretta Pure Freeride AT bindings - The perfect companion to Silvretta Freeride 800 AT skis… though if you would like to use skis with your mountaineering boots, one should propably consider Silvretta 500′s. They’ll fit almost on any boot, but for obvious reasons aren’t that good for ski-ing.

I guess I need to start working harder in order to save enough money for all of this.