Comments for Climbing Extreme http://www.climbingextreme.com Just for ice climbing. Wed, 12 Oct 2011 13:49:56 +0300 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 Comment on Different kind of screws by Juho http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/04/different-kind-of-screws/880/comment-page-1#comment-3751 Juho Wed, 12 Oct 2011 13:49:56 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=880#comment-3751 It's good to have different opinions. :-) I've personally been favoring BD Expresses and they're still the majority on my rack. However I liked the Speedy. I know, I'm somewhat odd ball here, most of my friends share your opinion about the integrated sling there... I don't really have a problem with clipping quickdraws either, that's the way I do it most of the time (through out the years I've climbed ice), still attached quickdraw seemed to add some fluency there. Sure, it does get a bit in the way and I also totally agree that they could be lighter. Btw. looking for light gear, one should take a look at USHBAs titanium screws at: http://www.tribevine.com/product/9781/Ushba%20Mountain%20Works/Ultimate ... that's a one I'd like to try. It’s good to have different opinions. :-) I’ve personally been favoring BD Expresses and they’re still the majority on my rack. However I liked the Speedy. I know, I’m somewhat odd ball here, most of my friends share your opinion about the integrated sling there… I don’t really have a problem with clipping quickdraws either, that’s the way I do it most of the time (through out the years I’ve climbed ice), still attached quickdraw seemed to add some fluency there. Sure, it does get a bit in the way and I also totally agree that they could be lighter.

Btw. looking for light gear, one should take a look at USHBAs titanium screws at: http://www.tribevine.com/product/9781/Ushba%20Mountain%20Works/Ultimate … that’s a one I’d like to try.

]]> Comment on Different kind of screws by EvannG http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/04/different-kind-of-screws/880/comment-page-1#comment-3730 EvannG Tue, 11 Oct 2011 14:17:37 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=880#comment-3730 The grivel screws have the worst setup I have ever seen for a piece of climbing protection. Driving into the ice takes 3x as long as with a BD Express because the silly sling gets in the way all the time. They are heavy, and do not rack very well. I climb a lot in the Rockies of Canada with ice of all different temperatures. Nothing beats BD screws for their simplicity and ease of placement. I worry when I see people with Grivel screws :( On the surface I know it seems like a pre-slung draw will save time but in my experience it does not. Majority of the time people have trouble clipping screws because their gloves are too thick. Wear thin gloves and you will be warmer plus have the dexterity to place protection quickly. other people just need to spend more time practicing how to place a screw and clip a draw to it. I set up a wooden practice board in my room and every winter I practice before I start my climbing season. It pays off greatly on the ice :) The grivel screws have the worst setup I have ever seen for a piece of climbing protection. Driving into the ice takes 3x as long as with a BD Express because the silly sling gets in the way all the time. They are heavy, and do not rack very well. I climb a lot in the Rockies of Canada with ice of all different temperatures. Nothing beats BD screws for their simplicity and ease of placement. I worry when I see people with Grivel screws :(

On the surface I know it seems like a pre-slung draw will save time but in my experience it does not. Majority of the time people have trouble clipping screws because their gloves are too thick. Wear thin gloves and you will be warmer plus have the dexterity to place protection quickly.

other people just need to spend more time practicing how to place a screw and clip a draw to it. I set up a wooden practice board in my room and every winter I practice before I start my climbing season. It pays off greatly on the ice :)

]]> Comment on Different kind of screws by Juho http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/04/different-kind-of-screws/880/comment-page-1#comment-2878 Juho Tue, 23 Aug 2011 08:10:34 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=880#comment-2878 You just need to remember that if you remove the quickdraw you're not really allowed to reconnect it... well, I guess you can do it, but Grivel says, such thing should only be done by authorized Grivel technician. You just need to remember that if you remove the quickdraw you’re not really allowed to reconnect it… well, I guess you can do it, but Grivel says, such thing should only be done by authorized Grivel technician.

]]> Comment on Different kind of screws by Runar http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/04/different-kind-of-screws/880/comment-page-1#comment-2872 Runar Tue, 23 Aug 2011 05:42:35 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=880#comment-2872 I'm gonna use them in Rjukan, Norway. So I might have to extend the quickdraw feom time to time. but the 20cm medium sling seems like a good choice. Removing the sling is a clever idea! I’m gonna use them in Rjukan, Norway. So I might have to extend the quickdraw feom time to time. but the 20cm medium sling seems like a good choice.

Removing the sling is a clever idea!

]]> Comment on Different kind of screws by Juho http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/04/different-kind-of-screws/880/comment-page-1#comment-2859 Juho Mon, 22 Aug 2011 17:31:49 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=880#comment-2859 Well, if there's no Helixes available Speedy is a good alternative, you can always remove the "permanent" sling part and voila, you've got a Helix... the sling in mine is the medium one, but don't remember the exact length. It all depends where do you use them. :-) Hopefully you find them good. I really liked mine, and the quality of Grivel screws is generally very good. Well, if there’s no Helixes available Speedy is a good alternative, you can always remove the “permanent” sling part and voila, you’ve got a Helix… the sling in mine is the medium one, but don’t remember the exact length. It all depends where do you use them. :-) Hopefully you find them good. I really liked mine, and the quality of Grivel screws is generally very good.

]]> Comment on Different kind of screws by Runar http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/04/different-kind-of-screws/880/comment-page-1#comment-2855 Runar Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:06:01 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=880#comment-2855 Can`t wait for the verdict. I`m looking into buying icescrews this fall and since backcountry.com don`t have the small Grivel Helix. I`m going for small Grivel Speedy instead. Your post has convince me :) PS: what length do you use on the sling? Can`t wait for the verdict.
I`m looking into buying icescrews this fall and since backcountry.com don`t have the small Grivel Helix. I`m going for small Grivel Speedy instead. Your post has convince me :)

PS: what length do you use on the sling?

]]> Comment on Reusable shock absorbers (screamers) and ice screws with replaceable tips by rokeeffe http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/02/reusable-shock-absorbers-screamers-and-ice-screws-with-replaceable-tips/805/comment-page-1#comment-2136 rokeeffe Thu, 14 Jul 2011 08:58:52 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=805#comment-2136 Hi, Basically I was wondering about the choice of Dyneema for a device that dissipates fall energy as heat as in the case of the Dissip. As far as I know Dyneema should never be exposed to temperatures above 80C. Looking at the sling used I'm guessing that it is 50% nylon and 50% Dyneema as I believe that Dyneema is hard to dye. I look forward to clarification, perhaps xarles would have some input. Cheers, Ronan. P.S. Great site Juho, keep up the good work. Hi,

Basically I was wondering about the choice of Dyneema for a device that dissipates fall energy as heat as in the case of the Dissip.
As far as I know Dyneema should never be exposed to temperatures above 80C.
Looking at the sling used I’m guessing that it is 50% nylon and 50% Dyneema as I believe that Dyneema is hard to dye.

I look forward to clarification, perhaps xarles would have some input.

Cheers,
Ronan.

P.S. Great site Juho, keep up the good work.

]]> Comment on Reusable shock absorbers (screamers) and ice screws with replaceable tips by Ronan O Keeffe http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/02/reusable-shock-absorbers-screamers-and-ice-screws-with-replaceable-tips/805/comment-page-1#comment-2124 Ronan O Keeffe Wed, 13 Jul 2011 09:26:43 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=805#comment-2124 Hi, Basically I was wondering about the choice of Dyneema for a device that dissipates fall energy as heat as in the case of the Dissip. As far as I know Dyneema should never be exposed to temperatures above 80C. Looking at the sling used I'm guessing that it is 50% nylon and 50% Dyneema as I believe that Dyneema is hard to dye. Can anyone confirm or comment on this? Cheers Juho, great blog by the way, keep up the good work. Ronan. Hi,

Basically I was wondering about the choice of Dyneema for a device that dissipates fall energy as heat as in the case of the Dissip.

As far as I know Dyneema should never be exposed to temperatures above 80C.

Looking at the sling used I’m guessing that it is 50% nylon and 50% Dyneema as I believe that Dyneema is hard to dye.

Can anyone confirm or comment on this?

Cheers Juho, great blog by the way, keep up the good work.
Ronan.

]]> Comment on It’s finally happening – we’re putting tribevine.com out by admin http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/03/its-finally-happening-were-putting-tribevine-com-out/869/comment-page-1#comment-1622 admin Fri, 08 Apr 2011 16:18:23 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=869#comment-1622 The first few items of the gear package that the next winner is going to receive were just confirmed + there will be nice surprises for runner-ups and others as well. So here are the products, and remember, it's likely to get beefed up further. :-) 1) A five pack of the latest of the latest, <a href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=5691&name=Petzl+Ange+Finesse" rel="nofollow">Petzl Ange Finesse</a> quickdraws (Recommended by<a href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=4337&name=Petzl%20%20Ange" rel="nofollow"> Aljaz Anderle, and I</a> of course). See also <a href="http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/non-locking-carabiners/ange-finesse" rel="nofollow">Petzl site</a> for more information. 2) Three of S<a href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=5696&name=Stubai%20Mountaineering%20Atomy" rel="nofollow">tubai's Atomy carabiners</a>, the lightest carabiner that are rated at 26kN breaking strength. See also <a href="http://www.stubai-bergsport.com/atomy_karabiner_with_screwgate_anod__produkte_art_aWQ9ZnVscG1lcyZsPWVuZ2xpc2gmc3VjaGU9JmVpbnRyYWc9ODIyMTUz.html" rel="nofollow">Stubai site</a> for more information. 3) A pair of Stubai's just out <a href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=5699&name=Stubai%20Mountaineering%20Eternal%20full%20finger" rel="nofollow">Eternal gloves</a> (either 3/4 or full finger). See also <a href="http://www.stubai-bergsport.com/gloves_eternal_full_finger_produkte_art_aWQ9ZnVscG1lcyZsPWVuZ2xpc2gmc3VjaGU9JmVpbnRyYWc9Nzc2NzUz.html" rel="nofollow">Stubai site</a> for more information. 4) A <a href="http://www.tribevine.com/product?p=5700&name=Shelby%20Big%20Chalk" rel="nofollow">Big Chalk</a> chalk back from Shelby, the made to measure extreme clothing manufacturer. See also <a href="http://www.shelby.fi/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41_49&products_id=385" rel="nofollow">Shelby site</a> for more information. The first few items of the gear package that the next winner is going to receive were just confirmed + there will be nice surprises for runner-ups and others as well.

So here are the products, and remember, it’s likely to get beefed up further. :-)

1) A five pack of the latest of the latest, Petzl Ange Finesse quickdraws (Recommended by Aljaz Anderle, and I of course). See also Petzl site for more information.

2) Three of Stubai’s Atomy carabiners, the lightest carabiner that are rated at 26kN breaking strength. See also Stubai site for more information.

3) A pair of Stubai’s just out Eternal gloves (either 3/4 or full finger). See also Stubai site for more information.

4) A Big Chalk chalk back from Shelby, the made to measure extreme clothing manufacturer. See also Shelby site for more information.

]]> Comment on It’s finally happening – we’re putting tribevine.com out by @womenoutdoors http://www.climbingextreme.com/2011/03/its-finally-happening-were-putting-tribevine-com-out/869/comment-page-1#comment-1494 @womenoutdoors Thu, 31 Mar 2011 02:45:08 +0000 http://www.climbingextreme.com/?p=869#comment-1494 Congratulations on this. I have heard good things through Mountain Enthusiast and look forward to seeing everything that is coming with the site. Congratulations on this. I have heard good things through Mountain Enthusiast and look forward to seeing everything that is coming with the site.

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