Balanced V-thread (aka Abalakov)Tuesday, January 4th, 2011 with 1 Comment »

There was recently a discussion at www.rockclimbing.com about how to do a balanced V-thread (you can see the discussion here).  As one of the speculated methods was a long prusik cord combined with a sliding x -type of setup I decided to test it out. The test results can be summarized as a success. I found it […]

Review – Black Diamond First ShotSunday, May 2nd, 2010 with Comments Off

For some reason descending using Abalakov thread (v-thread) is always kind of exciting experience. Though it is known, when created properly, Abalakov thread is as safe as any ice protection; it just does not feel as secure as hanging in a screw. In an Abalakov thread one of the biggest question marks, from reliability stand […]

Creating Abalakov thread (V-thread)Monday, February 2nd, 2009 with Comments Off

Abalakov thread, named after great Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov, is one of the great mountain safety inventions. It’s also known as a V-thread. Generally speaking Abalakov thread is fairly easy to create, doesn’t require any expensive gear to be left behind and, when created and used properly, it’s safe. Here’s a short introduction to Abalakov thread in a way I’m used […]

Future topics – feedback appreciatedThursday, January 29th, 2009 with Comments Off

I have a goal to have a new post at least once a week. I’m planning for future topics and I would like to get your opinion. Currently I’ve got following topics on my drawing board. So let me know if any of these would interest you. Tell also what else you would like to […]

Last years trip to NorwayMonday, January 26th, 2009 with 1 Comment »

While I’ve been waiting to get the schedule of our this year’s “expedition” nailed down, I thought that it would be good time to refresh some of the good memories from the last years ice climbing “expedition”. Luckily it seems that this type of ”expedition” with Jari is turning in to a yearly tradition.  During the trip we climbed three ice […]