Oh, and one more thing before the images; If you’re interested in more detailed description of how to create a standard V-thread see my other blog article here.

Update 4.1.2011: As there was already some feedback about of being a good example or not at rockclimbing.com, I want to clarify that overall this is not a guide book example of a good V-thread, it is an equalization test case. There are several shortcomings, some of them have been pointed out in the image descriptions. Most importantly the spot was selected due to the ease of photography, not because we thought it as a good spot for V thread. In anycase, personally I wouldn’t had any problems of using the equalized V-thread here. This being said I wouldn’t had used only the V-thread that’s closer to the photographer. The second V-thread felt solid enough that it might have been used after proper testing and screw backup for the first climber (the one who’s heavier and who gives the good test bang for the V-thread).

All the test session images:

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At first First Shot feels sturdy, high quality, piece of gear; exactly what we have come to expect from Black Diamond. There are several problems though. First Shot is somewhat difficult to open with gloves. The metal hook, that’s supposed to be used for cutting and threading the cord through the hole, bends very easily. Furthermore it’s not at all that easy as you could think to create the Abalakov using First Shot. Everything was even worse when the conditions were difficult. We tested the thing both in good conditions and in dark pretty heavy snow storm and ended up doing the Abalakov thread traditional way each time.

Of course it might just be that I was dumb enough not to figure out the correct way of operation. I kind of doubt that though. I went through the instructions pretty well and did several trials prior to trying First Shot on real ice. Based on my experience in its current stage it is not worth of your money. For me First Shot was a huge disappointment. Especially because Black Diamond usually gets it right.

Here’s a short introduction to Abalakov thread in a way I’m used to do it. I’m doing it just a bit differently than it’s usually been though; in particularly I’m using pre-cut-pre-tied prusik loops, which, in my opinion, makes it faster and easier to create Abalakov threads. This is actually something, which I would hope that some of the more experienced climbers would comment on. Unfortunately I don’t have images of the procedure yet, but they will be added later on.

You need:

• 1-2 meters of >7mm prusik cord or something else with similar strength. The length depends on how you use it. If you use it traditional way, you need about 1 meter. I’m using mostly pre-cut readymade prusik loops, which require longer cord, but on the other hand provide easier and faster creation of Abalakov thread. A narrow dyneema sling will do also, but is far more expensive.
• At least one long, >19cm, sharp ice screw. If you have longer screws, use the longer one. Length of screw adds security.
• Abalakov threading device, either improvised or commercial. You can improvise one from any stiff enough wire. I’ve been very happy user of Grivel Candela, which is great for cleaning screws and cutting rope as well.
• Knowledge to create double fisherman’s knot (see images at the bottom), or other dependable knot according to material you’re using.

Step-by-step instructions:

• Select location with solid ice and remove all excess ice from area of 20-40cm in diameter.
• Use your ice screw to drill horizontal hole at roughly 45 -50 degrees compared to the surface of the ice.
• Measure a suitable distance for the second hole (15-20cm), you can use your ice screw as a guide. Note that wider the gap between holes, stronger Abalakov you’ve got. Roughly spoken 10cm gap, will result strength of 6-7Kn, 15cm gap 10-11Kn and 20cm gap 11-12Kn.
• Drill second hole to the ice with similar angle, so that the two holes meet as deep inside the ice as possible. If you put second ice screw or the Abalakov threading device in to the hole, it’s easier to aim in to right spot.
• Put the cord (or in my case prusik loop) in to one of the holes as deep as it goes.
• Use Abalakov threading device to pull the cord trough from other hole. In case of candela and prusik loop, it’s very easy to do, just move the wire part below the cord, twist your candela a bit and voila, it’s trough.
• In case of prusik loop or sling, you’re ready to put your abseiling rope trough, in case of untied cord; you need to do a double fisherman’s knot to be ready.
• Place the screw in to ice about 50-70 cm away from Abalakov you’ve just did and use a runner to create a backup for first one to abseil (last one will remove it and abseil with out backup).
• Run half of your rope trough the cord loop you have. Now the first one to abseil can prepare him/herself to go down. First one should carry most of the heavy gear.
• Watch carefully while going down to observe behavior of the ice for fractures and prusik loop for possible slippage (it won’t slip though, if you did the knot right).
• Once first one is down, he/she can start creating the Abalakov for next pitch, while the second one removes the backup and abseils.

As said, I’ve noticed that it’s much easier to use prusik loops instead of untied cord. First of all, it’s easier to hook out with Abalakov threading device and perhaps even more importantly since you don’t need to tie anything you don’t need to remove your gloves (yes I know one should be able to do it with gloves too, but that’s soooo slow). I have a feeling that a loop is easier to stuff in to first hole, since the rope doesn’t make as many curves inside the holes.

In case you don’t have good enough ice available, you could use two Abalakovs instead of one and create a sort of a balanced abseiling point. This being said, I would heavily consider a possibility for other route down in this type of circumstances.

Possible mistakes:

• Incorect selection of ice (not solid enough)
• Incorrect placement of holes (too close to each other or too early interconnection)
• use of improper cord (not strong enough)
• improper knots (either selection of wrong knot, or inproper tying).

Update 5.1.2011: As I wrote another article that concerns testing of a sliding x -type of configuration with V-threads I decided to give a short update on our current V-thread / Abalakov procedures. First of all we’re now using over hand knot while tying the prusik cord. It should be almost as secure in this context as double fisherman’s, but is much simpler to tie and can be tied gloves on. The second change is that we’ve abandoned the use of ready made prusik loops; mainly because the overhand knot is so much simpler to tie – i.e. the reasons for using the loops have disapeared.

Few images about creating Abalakov thread:

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Double fisherman’s knot in images:

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Topics currently on the drawing board:

• Creating a perfect Abalakov thread (V-thread) – Detailed instructions, tips and tricks for creating Abalakov thread.
• The perfect belay anchor on ice – Detailed instructions, tips and tricks for creating belay anchors, techniques involved changing the lead etc.
• Emergency skills on multi-pitch ice climb - Skills, tips and tricks for emergency situations on multi-pitch climbing routes.
• Quickdraw s – what’s different? - A small review on different types of quickdraws.
• Kebnekaise randonee trip – Trip story about last year’s randonee trip with plenty of (good) images.
• Dreambag – In search for best down sleeping bag for high mountain trips.
• Handy equipment review – Review on some not so necessary, but handy, equipment there is for ice climbing
• The best ice climbing websites – Review and tips for best ice climbing related web-sites in the cyberspace.

In addition to these there will be plenty of climbing trip stories and images. So table is yours let me know, what would you like read.

During the trip we climbed three ice falls at Tamok valley, Norway. It was surprising how easily the first two climbs went. We did both of those in a single day, each required three pitches with 60 meter rope. As we found few old Ablakov threads and attached prusik ropes while climbing it was kind of evident that these three were pretty popular falls for ice climbing. Only difficulty with the first fall was the top, where the stream had carved out most of the ice especially under the snow.

On the second day we had the longer and more difficult climb. It required four pitches and included some seriously thin ice plus a bit of planning while creating decent Abalakovs. After first pitch there was also a long snow section, where it was impossible to place any ice protection. This led us in to running belay situation. To avoid such next time, we will carry some pitons and hexes in future. I have to say that I was well above my comfort range there.

I was really enjoying the climbs. Those were our first climbs, which really required multiple pitches. In addition to those three real climbs, we did a probing climb, which almost turned in to accident, at the ice fall called “Hourglass”, which is located in the Skibotn valley.

Picture above: The third climb, this was four pitches.

During the trip weather was surprisingly nice. The sky was clear (in Norway that’s not that common) and temperature was between -5 (day time) and -15 (night time) in Celsius. Simply put, it was perfect from climbing stand point. We were able to find a camping location right by the road directly in front of three nice falls with easy and fairly short approach. Though we had to dig a small pocket for our car there was a small widening at the road, which made safe parking a bit easier. The location also had a good access to clear water from the small river between our camp and ice falls.

Picture above: Our camping ground and Jari.

Lessons learned and few tricks you should try, in case you already haven’t:

• If you don’t know all the details about the fall you’re climbing, you should cary some rock protection as well. There are situations where one might need to place piton or two to avoid running belay situation. Since pitons are fairly cheap, they come handy also while rappelling in places where you can’t create an Abalakov thread.
• We burned small candles inside the tent, which greatly reduced the amount of condensation (and resulting snow). Though we used improvised lantern hooked to the loop at the highest point of tent, there are some commercial alternatives as well. For instance you could try UCO Candle Lanterns.
• You can store your food by digging them in to snow in a plastic bag. Being below the snow prevents the food and drink from freezing quite effectively.
• If you’re having expedition-type climbing boots, you can wear the inner boot inside sleeping bag. This dries the boot and you can climb the next day with warm and dry feet.

In regards of camping the only problem was the Jari’s HUGE Exped Downmat 9DLX, which filled our Haglöfs Genius tent almost entirely. I didn’t have a chance while competing over sleeping space with my tiny Therm-a-Rest Prolite. I’ve prepared for this year’s expedition with my own Downmat (though smaller version), so that I’ve got an equal chance in the competition.

Location details:

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Few images from the trip below:

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