Picture above: Beghaus Extrem ski touring gloves.

The requirements for a good ice climbing gloves are diverse and often contradictory. The durability, especially on palm side and fingers is a must. Dexterity, especially when dealing with screws, is required. To make the subject even more difficult there’s dozens of variables in play. One must take into account the weather and climbing conditions; even small things such as gear that’s been used, affect the situation heavily. Gloves should be simultaneously wildly breathable, but offer enough warmth and protection from the elements and at the times freely flowing water. In short, even though most of you (ice climbers) probably know already quite a bit of gloves, I thought to share some of my insights and experiences on the topic; I don’t think it’s possible to know too much about it.

General instructions for glove selection

• You need to have several pairs of them - One pair of breathables for approaches, one pair for climbing and one pair to have a dry pair just in case. Typically I will carry even fourth extra warm pair of mitts, especially if it’s cold, for belaying and hanging around. Sometimes, in very cold conditions, I might carry fifth thin wool pair to provide extra warmth under the standard pair. Furthermore you probably need a different primary climbing glove pair for cold and warm days.
• The ones that you use for climbing need to be super durable - Check the palm side, the extra protected area needs to be extra large and durable enough to take the sliding rope and axes. The protected area should reach from fingers to the top of the hand. Pay attention to stitching and seams, which are usually the weak spots. Typically, in high quality glove, extra durable materials, such as Pittard Armortan on palm itself and Kevlar on palm stitching, are being used.
• The primary climbing pair needs to be able to deal with the water - This means most likely Gore-Tex or some similar water proofing in the glove, and such wrist that can be put on top of the jacket. Well, the wrist part is matter of preference in some extent, but I like to route the water on top of my jacket instead of inside of it. Furthermore there are some other ways of dealing with water, such as neoprene, but as said, I prefer water proof. Also if you KNOW that there will be very little or no liquid water (either flowing or in form of rain / wet snow), you could think of something more breathable (=less water proof).
• They need to be dexterous - The basic principle in climbing cold conditions in order to avoid frost bites is that you wear your gloves all the times. You pour and drink your tea, eat your bread while wearing them, you belay and place your screws while wearing them; you tie the knots while wearing them. Though it’s partly a matter of learning it is also a matter of glove as well. Try to find a pair that feels as dexterous as possible.
• Try them out and perhaps several pairs - Gloves tend to vary from glove to glove slightly, choose the pair that gives the best feeling and dexterity while trying. Preferably try them with your ice tools, as glove padding and some of the axe fangs and triggers might not fit together well.
• Pay attention to details - There needs to be easy way to dry them up (how do you hang them?) and they should be washable. Some people (including I) like ones that have some padding to protect the fingers from bruises. It’s not a bad idea to consider as primary climbing glove, at least for cold days, something that has removable lining and a cord that attaches them to your wrists (you don’t like to lose them when there’s an hour down and three hours up).

Some practical glove experiences / reviews:

• Black Diamond Enforcer gloves – My current primary climbing glove. They are warm; the protective area on palm side is large enough and extends to the fingers. There’s a removable Gore-Tex insert which makes the washing and drying easier. So far the best pair I’ve found.
• Grivel Ice Fall gloves – These were my number one primary climbing pair few seasons back. They’re made of strong enough materials, have finger protection and are water proof. Their overall quality is good. They could breathe better and certain parts of the palm stitching seem to be in areas that experience heavy wear. They’ve been a very good pair in deed. Note that Grivel sizing is extremely small; as a result you probably start trying something that’s at least one size bigger than your usual size.
• Grivel Taa-k-oon gloves – I’ve used these for approaches, cross country ski-in and in very rare occasions warm weather climbing. They are fairly breathable, offer good grip and plenty of dexterity. For me though, they’re too thin for climbing. It’s usually just too cold for them. They’ve served me well for several years though and seem to be good quality. Note the Grivel sizing.
• Bergaus Extrem gloves – My “dry pair”. They’re surprisingly warm and dexterous, the leather is soft and they breathe fairly well. I actually bought these to be my primary climbing gloves, but the problem was the fact that they weren’t hard enough for climbing; seams tear apart when stressed (there were several rips in less than two days of heavy use). I have also frequently used these for ski touring, which is ideal purpose for them (I guess that’s what they are designed for). Despite the design shortages (seam durability) from climbing perspective, they’re extremely good quality gloves.
• Ice Breaker Merino Liner gloves – Liners to add extra warmth during the coldest days of winter. They’re good though add more bulk when worn under Enforcers.
• Salomon Mitts (don’t know the type) – I’ve used Salomon mitts mainly for belaying and while standing around on very cold days. They’re extremely warm, but the materials aren’t water proof and they aren’t durable enough for actual climbing. The slight problem with these is the fact that the material is so thin, that they can get stuck in to your belay device.
• Unknown Fleece / Fiber Fill breathable gloves – I’ve used these mainly for approaches on cold days. They’re warm, light and breathable, but not very durable – a cheapest option of adding warmth for summer mountaineering at Kebnekaise few years back (forgot to bring any gloves). Did the trick and have been in frequent use even though the quality hasn’t been perfect.

Few images of gloves:

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

Saturday was modest, just about -25, but on Sunday it got colder. The lowest figure we had was -29.5 (measured on our car’s thermometer few kilometers away from the spot), it were most likely even colder down on the bottom of Korouoma canyon.

As many of you may know cold makes climbing difficult in several ways. First of all ice is very hard and it carks really easily. As a result screws tend to fracture ice while screwing, screwing requires more strength, large chunks of ice will detach frequently due to use of ice tools, which posses danger not only climber himself, but anyone below as well, and it requires more skill to build secure belay anchors on the wall etc. Second, cold means freezing, freezing fingers and feats, fingers feeling numb and all the pain related having frozen limbs. In other words one better stay warm.

Few tips for climbing in cold:

• Use only sharp screws. The ones that have seen some stone may bite reasonably well on warmer ice, but will just fracture the cold ice making the placement of ice protection almost impossible.
• An extra large down jacket is a absolute must, even though I had one (+one layer of fleece, two layers of merino wool +extra warm climbing boots) I were having hard time to keep myself warm.
• I would think that a soft shell would do much better than Gore-Tex as an out most layer. Unfortunately I don’t have one and can’t give you a real firsthand experience about it. In theory besides being warmer, soft shell doesn’t have the freezing problem related to Gore-Tex. In other words if temperature is below -20 to -25 Gore-Tex pores freeze and doesn’t let vaporized water out as they should, thus resulting a small internal snow rain inside your jacket.
• Use eye protection, cold ice results plenty of small razor sharp ice bits that poses serious danger to your eye sight.
• Chemical heat pads were a real life saver in a glove while climbing the first 20 meters until you’ve really warmed up.
• Make a good warm up before starting to climb. Swing your hands; take a short walk to uphill etc.
• Have a good thermos filled with extra hot (and sweet – plenty of energy) drink and remember to eat enough to ensure that your body has the energy not just for climbing but to keep you warm – heating takes more energy in cold conditions.
• Where possible and in case you don’t absolutely want to lead climb, you might consider setting a permanent belay position on higher ground and do belaying at the top of the fall, as it is much warmer there than at the bottom of the canyon.

The positive side on cold conditions is the fact that you don’t usually need to worry about staying dry. Water floats less and tends to freeze directly on top of your clothes. As an extra plus you don’t sweat that much either, which again means drier feel.

Location details:

View Larger Map