Picture above: All the three different screws.

Black Diamond Express – On a stance, due to its two carabiner holes Express is obvious choice. I’m grabbing it also on cold hard ice in a difficult situation where I need a fast placement, especially if the placement location is suboptimal, i.e. I need to reach out further than I’d like (or thought due hollow spot).

• Easiest to get started, harder the ice, bigger the difference
• Has two carabiner holes (handy at stance)
• Though the knob in the new model is larger, is still kind of small
• High quality finishing
• Racks well with other “standard” shaped screws
• Set of these with appropriate amount of quickdraws weights about 200g more than the lightest alternative (provided that you use light quick draws, i.e. 70g each)

Picture above: Black Diamond Express screw.

E-climb klau – It’s fastest placing screw on soft ice; it’s obvious; I’ll grab it in difficult situation when the weather is warm and ice is soft.

• Easiest to drive once started
• By far the lightest screw on a rack
• Has replaceable tip
• Furthest reaching folding handle
• Carabiner hole can accommodate two carabiners
• Tip seems to rust easier than competition
• Racks well with other “standard” shaped screws

Picture above: E-climb klau screw.

Grivel Speedy – Great combination of features, excels in all conditions, I’ll use it when everything is flowing well and I want to save the extra move (and thus time) that it takes to find and clip a quick draw.

• While not the lightest as such, you’ll save the weight of a one carabiner
• Very easy to drive, bites reasonably well in all conditions
• Tip protector that doubles up as handle
• Has integrated quickdraw, that saves you from searching and clipping a quick draw from your rack (it’s surprising how big the difference is)
• Large diameter carabiner hole, can take several carabiners
• Very high quality finishing
• Not perhaps as straight forward to rack as “standard”-shaped screws (though I haven’t had any problems with racking).

Picture above: Grivel Speedy screw.

So based on these experiences it seems that I’m going to build a core of my rack around Grivel’s Speedys, though before final decision, I need more experience of them on very hard ice. In addition there will be couple of short, one medium and one long Black Diamond Expresses; unless of course I’ll find Speedys better on hard ice as well. The long and medium Expresses are for building stances and abalakovs. Then there will be a few E-climb klaus, just for those warm days in case I need something longer than the longest standard integrated quickdraw of Speedy (over 30cm).

Then the web-stores that sell these things:

1. Black Diamond Express – REI, Backcountry, Needle Sports, Barrabes, Telemark-Pyrenees, Varuste.net, Camu, Moosejaw, US Outdoor Store, Eastern Mountain Sports, GearX
2. E-climb klau – E-climb
3. Grivel Speedy - Backcountry, Needle Sports, Telemark-Pyrenees, Moosejaw

Few closeup shots of the screws:

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Picture above: Beghaus Extrem ski touring gloves.

The requirements for a good ice climbing gloves are diverse and often contradictory. The durability, especially on palm side and fingers is a must. Dexterity, especially when dealing with screws, is required. To make the subject even more difficult there’s dozens of variables in play. One must take into account the weather and climbing conditions; even small things such as gear that’s been used, affect the situation heavily. Gloves should be simultaneously wildly breathable, but offer enough warmth and protection from the elements and at the times freely flowing water. In short, even though most of you (ice climbers) probably know already quite a bit of gloves, I thought to share some of my insights and experiences on the topic; I don’t think it’s possible to know too much about it.

General instructions for glove selection

• You need to have several pairs of them - One pair of breathables for approaches, one pair for climbing and one pair to have a dry pair just in case. Typically I will carry even fourth extra warm pair of mitts, especially if it’s cold, for belaying and hanging around. Sometimes, in very cold conditions, I might carry fifth thin wool pair to provide extra warmth under the standard pair. Furthermore you probably need a different primary climbing glove pair for cold and warm days.
• The ones that you use for climbing need to be super durable - Check the palm side, the extra protected area needs to be extra large and durable enough to take the sliding rope and axes. The protected area should reach from fingers to the top of the hand. Pay attention to stitching and seams, which are usually the weak spots. Typically, in high quality glove, extra durable materials, such as Pittard Armortan on palm itself and Kevlar on palm stitching, are being used.
• The primary climbing pair needs to be able to deal with the water - This means most likely Gore-Tex or some similar water proofing in the glove, and such wrist that can be put on top of the jacket. Well, the wrist part is matter of preference in some extent, but I like to route the water on top of my jacket instead of inside of it. Furthermore there are some other ways of dealing with water, such as neoprene, but as said, I prefer water proof. Also if you KNOW that there will be very little or no liquid water (either flowing or in form of rain / wet snow), you could think of something more breathable (=less water proof).
• They need to be dexterous - The basic principle in climbing cold conditions in order to avoid frost bites is that you wear your gloves all the times. You pour and drink your tea, eat your bread while wearing them, you belay and place your screws while wearing them; you tie the knots while wearing them. Though it’s partly a matter of learning it is also a matter of glove as well. Try to find a pair that feels as dexterous as possible.
• Try them out and perhaps several pairs - Gloves tend to vary from glove to glove slightly, choose the pair that gives the best feeling and dexterity while trying. Preferably try them with your ice tools, as glove padding and some of the axe fangs and triggers might not fit together well.
• Pay attention to details - There needs to be easy way to dry them up (how do you hang them?) and they should be washable. Some people (including I) like ones that have some padding to protect the fingers from bruises. It’s not a bad idea to consider as primary climbing glove, at least for cold days, something that has removable lining and a cord that attaches them to your wrists (you don’t like to lose them when there’s an hour down and three hours up).

Some practical glove experiences / reviews:

• Black Diamond Enforcer gloves – My current primary climbing glove. They are warm; the protective area on palm side is large enough and extends to the fingers. There’s a removable Gore-Tex insert which makes the washing and drying easier. So far the best pair I’ve found.
• Grivel Ice Fall gloves – These were my number one primary climbing pair few seasons back. They’re made of strong enough materials, have finger protection and are water proof. Their overall quality is good. They could breathe better and certain parts of the palm stitching seem to be in areas that experience heavy wear. They’ve been a very good pair in deed. Note that Grivel sizing is extremely small; as a result you probably start trying something that’s at least one size bigger than your usual size.
• Grivel Taa-k-oon gloves – I’ve used these for approaches, cross country ski-in and in very rare occasions warm weather climbing. They are fairly breathable, offer good grip and plenty of dexterity. For me though, they’re too thin for climbing. It’s usually just too cold for them. They’ve served me well for several years though and seem to be good quality. Note the Grivel sizing.
• Bergaus Extrem gloves – My “dry pair”. They’re surprisingly warm and dexterous, the leather is soft and they breathe fairly well. I actually bought these to be my primary climbing gloves, but the problem was the fact that they weren’t hard enough for climbing; seams tear apart when stressed (there were several rips in less than two days of heavy use). I have also frequently used these for ski touring, which is ideal purpose for them (I guess that’s what they are designed for). Despite the design shortages (seam durability) from climbing perspective, they’re extremely good quality gloves.
• Ice Breaker Merino Liner gloves – Liners to add extra warmth during the coldest days of winter. They’re good though add more bulk when worn under Enforcers.
• Salomon Mitts (don’t know the type) – I’ve used Salomon mitts mainly for belaying and while standing around on very cold days. They’re extremely warm, but the materials aren’t water proof and they aren’t durable enough for actual climbing. The slight problem with these is the fact that the material is so thin, that they can get stuck in to your belay device.
• Unknown Fleece / Fiber Fill breathable gloves – I’ve used these mainly for approaches on cold days. They’re warm, light and breathable, but not very durable – a cheapest option of adding warmth for summer mountaineering at Kebnekaise few years back (forgot to bring any gloves). Did the trick and have been in frequent use even though the quality hasn’t been perfect.

Few images of gloves:

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Picture above: Broken Wild Country Helium.

1. Berghaus Extrem gloves
Seams seem to tear apart in heavy use, especially with ropes. They would be great gloves, I love their dexterity and warmth but as their seams may tear apart during a single day, they just aren’t an option for ice climbing. Even while ski touring one needs to be careful when ever handling ropes.

2. Grivel Rambo 4 crampons
The yellow plastic of the active antibots breaks apart easily from its attachment; harder black plastic. I’ve seen this happen practically in every pair of Rambo’s I’ve seen. Despite the problem they’re best ice climbing crampons I know, and with a bit of patience one can fix the problem temporarily by pushing the plastic part back in place.

3. Wild Country Helium Quickdraws
The anti-slip rubber of Helium Quickdraws is too “hard” and therefore breaks in below zero temperatures from the stitching seam. I have a set of five of these and it has happened on everyone except one. Different type of rubber, for instance such that’s been used in Black Diamon’s Positrons would probably fix the problem. Though I like Heliums, they’re not currently the first choice for an ice climber.

4. Sigg Bottle cap
Threads of the cap get eaten by the bottle. To prevent this bottle should not be filled too full, the cap should not be tightened too tight and one should not allow the bottle to freeze.

5. North Face Summit Series Gore-Tex XCR jacket
The watertight zippers of the jacket wear down quite fast in below zero temperatures, especially if there’s plenty of use for the zippers.

6. Black Diamond Ice Clippers and their Xenos ice climbing harness
Ice Clippers slip through the clipper holders of Xenos after a while. In order to avoid that one should avoid too heavy loads (>five screws) and bending the clippers while packing it up. Still if the lip of the Ice Clipper would be just a bit longer or the clipper holder in the harness just a bit stiffer, it would work perfectly.

7. Grivel Manu backpack
The Manu concept, detachable gear loops, is great and I’m using it frequently. The problem though is that with the gear loops only (i.e. backpack removed) the velcro on the back of the gear loops sticks to everything and cause for instance slings to wear faster than I would hope. An extra sheet of something to put on top of the velcro will fix the problem, but perhaps that could integrated to the Manu somehow too.

Few images about the products mentioned:

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Any comments and experiences of similar weak spots are greatly appreciated. I’m sure there are plenty of such around. It’s a great help for fellow climbers to be aware of them.

Here are few findings for the next season:

1. Grivel Cascade – Fresh ice axe replacement blades – These are B-rated, but should be better for ice climbing than Grivel’s T-rated stuff, which excel on mixed routes. The link is not to the Grivel site, for some reason, there are plenty of such Grivel products that aren’t there. The link is to Needlesports, they have a good set of replacement blades.

2. Grivel Double Spring Leash (2 krab version) – It is not really a leash, but flexible runner, which can be attached to the harness to avoid loss of axe.

3. Arc’teryx Gamma MX soft shell jacket - A soft shell jacket, no hood, but ideal for wearing under Goretex or other waterproof shell. There’s also hooded version available, price is pretty steep though typically well over 300€.

4. Arc’teryx Gamma MX soft shell pants - The pants part of the above jacket.

5. Arc’teryx Bucket Liner – A hat that’s compatible with your helmet.

6. Arc’teryx Gamma SV Glove - Like many others, I’ve been looking for perfect ice climbing gloves (have a stock of quite a few already), would these be finally the ones?

7. Black Diamond Avalung II – I’m not absolutely sure if Avalung would be something that I would carry while climbing ice, though there’s certainly occassionally a danger of avalanche around. Anyways, for some reason I’ve been tempted to buy one for a long time.

8. Black Diamond First Shot - An interesting tool for getting the abalakov right for those days when you’ve done it already twice and it still wasn’t good enough.

9. Grivel Speedy – A kind of ice screw quickdraw combination, resulting better safety, reduced weight and faster placement.

10. Petzl Crevasse Rescue Kit – A compact emergency kit that contains everything needed for hauling / ascending in rescue situation.

11. Exped DownMat Pump - Like the award winning down mat, but with integrated pump. I mean, the pumping was the only real problem with these, and now it seems that they have solved it.

12. MSR Lightning Accent snowshoes – I’ve been long drooling over these snow shoes. Unfortunately I’ve already got MSR Denalis and I haven’t therefore really been able to justify the purchase.

13. Valandre Freja sleeping bag – A sleeping bag for cold winter nights, still pretty light. Temperature rating up to -33 in Celsius with weight only about 1,5kg is impressive.

14. Silvretta Freeride 800 AT skis – Recently I’ve been thinking that AT skis might be good alternative for approaches and ascents. This being said though, I guess I would like to have these just because of last season I carried my snowboard around way too much (not while ice climbing ofcourse).

15. Silvretta Pure Freeride AT bindings - The perfect companion to Silvretta Freeride 800 AT skis… though if you would like to use skis with your mountaineering boots, one should propably consider Silvretta 500′s. They’ll fit almost on any boot, but for obvious reasons aren’t that good for ski-ing.

I guess I need to start working harder in order to save enough money for all of this.

Picture above: Grivel Rambo 4′s, fresh out of package

Rambo’s have long been the ones, on what comes to rigid crampons. Rambo 4′s introduce several new features, such as optimized curved shape and factory installed antibots. Probably the most innovative new feature is the mono point structure, where stabilizing side point has been added to bring in some of the dual point crampon benefits without sacrificing the penetration qualities of mono point. In addition Rambo 4 package includes optional heel point and necessary tools for maintenance.

The length of the Rambo’s can be adjusted just removing one screw. There are several other adjustments available as well. There’s one caveat, there aren’t that many options for front and rear bars as holes on the frame would let you expect, other parts, unlike in earlier Rambos, prevent use of some adjustment holes. Rambos fitted securely despite small opening which were left between the back of the shoe and crampon. Being rigid crampon, and therefore less adjustable, fitting with your shoe is still something you should make sure before you buy. Though, if you own earlier version of Rambos, they’ll likely to fit.

During the Norway trip we climbed three days. It was my pleasure to notice that side-point structure worked like charm. Rambo 4′s are indeed stable, without sacrificing the monopoint benefits. Rambos penetrate ice easily and securely, they hold very well in various ice and climbing conditions, including curtains and icicles. In short they were splendid to climb on. I warmly recommend Rambo 4′s for any vertical ice. They’re by far the best rigid crampons I’ve climbed with. They’re a bit heavy and perhaps a bit too clumsy for walking, though I’ve been walking with them as well.

Web stores that sell Grivel Rambo 4 crampons: Backcountry, Needle Sports, Telemark-Pyrenees, Varuste.net, Eastern Mountan Sports

Few images about Grivel Rambo 4′s below:

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Here’s a short introduction to Abalakov thread in a way I’m used to do it. I’m doing it just a bit differently than it’s usually been though; in particularly I’m using pre-cut-pre-tied prusik loops, which, in my opinion, makes it faster and easier to create Abalakov threads. This is actually something, which I would hope that some of the more experienced climbers would comment on. Unfortunately I don’t have images of the procedure yet, but they will be added later on.

You need:

• 1-2 meters of >7mm prusik cord or something else with similar strength. The length depends on how you use it. If you use it traditional way, you need about 1 meter. I’m using mostly pre-cut readymade prusik loops, which require longer cord, but on the other hand provide easier and faster creation of Abalakov thread. A narrow dyneema sling will do also, but is far more expensive.
• At least one long, >19cm, sharp ice screw. If you have longer screws, use the longer one. Length of screw adds security.
• Abalakov threading device, either improvised or commercial. You can improvise one from any stiff enough wire. I’ve been very happy user of Grivel Candela, which is great for cleaning screws and cutting rope as well.
• Knowledge to create double fisherman’s knot (see images at the bottom), or other dependable knot according to material you’re using.

Step-by-step instructions:

• Select location with solid ice and remove all excess ice from area of 20-40cm in diameter.
• Use your ice screw to drill horizontal hole at roughly 45 -50 degrees compared to the surface of the ice.
• Measure a suitable distance for the second hole (15-20cm), you can use your ice screw as a guide. Note that wider the gap between holes, stronger Abalakov you’ve got. Roughly spoken 10cm gap, will result strength of 6-7Kn, 15cm gap 10-11Kn and 20cm gap 11-12Kn.
• Drill second hole to the ice with similar angle, so that the two holes meet as deep inside the ice as possible. If you put second ice screw or the Abalakov threading device in to the hole, it’s easier to aim in to right spot.
• Put the cord (or in my case prusik loop) in to one of the holes as deep as it goes.
• Use Abalakov threading device to pull the cord trough from other hole. In case of candela and prusik loop, it’s very easy to do, just move the wire part below the cord, twist your candela a bit and voila, it’s trough.
• In case of prusik loop or sling, you’re ready to put your abseiling rope trough, in case of untied cord; you need to do a double fisherman’s knot to be ready.
• Place the screw in to ice about 50-70 cm away from Abalakov you’ve just did and use a runner to create a backup for first one to abseil (last one will remove it and abseil with out backup).
• Run half of your rope trough the cord loop you have. Now the first one to abseil can prepare him/herself to go down. First one should carry most of the heavy gear.
• Watch carefully while going down to observe behavior of the ice for fractures and prusik loop for possible slippage (it won’t slip though, if you did the knot right).
• Once first one is down, he/she can start creating the Abalakov for next pitch, while the second one removes the backup and abseils.

As said, I’ve noticed that it’s much easier to use prusik loops instead of untied cord. First of all, it’s easier to hook out with Abalakov threading device and perhaps even more importantly since you don’t need to tie anything you don’t need to remove your gloves (yes I know one should be able to do it with gloves too, but that’s soooo slow). I have a feeling that a loop is easier to stuff in to first hole, since the rope doesn’t make as many curves inside the holes.

In case you don’t have good enough ice available, you could use two Abalakovs instead of one and create a sort of a balanced abseiling point. This being said, I would heavily consider a possibility for other route down in this type of circumstances.

Possible mistakes:

• Incorect selection of ice (not solid enough)
• Incorrect placement of holes (too close to each other or too early interconnection)
• use of improper cord (not strong enough)
• improper knots (either selection of wrong knot, or inproper tying).

Update 5.1.2011: As I wrote another article that concerns testing of a sliding x -type of configuration with V-threads I decided to give a short update on our current V-thread / Abalakov procedures. First of all we’re now using over hand knot while tying the prusik cord. It should be almost as secure in this context as double fisherman’s, but is much simpler to tie and can be tied gloves on. The second change is that we’ve abandoned the use of ready made prusik loops; mainly because the overhand knot is so much simpler to tie – i.e. the reasons for using the loops have disapeared.

Few images about creating Abalakov thread:

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Double fisherman’s knot in images:

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Though, ice climbing is being placed in to extreme end of extreme sports, in some circles, even more so than rock climbing, it doesn’t have to be so extreme. It’s very much like in any other climbing activity. Extremeness depends on how do you do it and what kind of risks you’re willing to accept. If you use just top rope, use eye protection (large portion of serious ice climbing injuries are eye injuries), be very careful while selecting, approaching and building belay anchors, ice climbing is very safe. This being said, again like any outdoor climbing sport, ice climbing certainly poses a risk of death or serious injury.

So, how to get started then? First of all, you need to get basic knowledge about climbing. In essence this includes belaying and figure-eight-loop-type of knots. Once you know the basics, you should either take ice climbing class or find someone who has some ice climbing experience and can teach you the basics of ice. If you haven’t been climbing directly with training qualified ice climber, I would recommend taking few classes anyways. It’s just so much easier and safer after you have. Here in Finland for instance some climbing associations, like mine (OKS91) arranges very affordable classes (about 50-70€ / head, including equipment). I would imagine that the situation isn’t so different in other parts of the world.

Another frequent comment about ice climbing is the cost of the ice climbing equipment. It’s true that equipment is fairly expensive, especially if you’re buying full, lead climb, capable set alone. Some climbing associations, like mine (OKS91), rent equipment, which is very easy and cost-effective way to start with. In our case rental price is just about 10-20€/day. From this perspective ice climbing is actually cheaper than for instance say skiing, where lift tickets are fairly expensive.

If you’re getting in to sport deeper, you’ll probably end up buying set of equipment. Below is my suggestion of what to buy in each phase of your ice climbing career and rough estimate about price of each piece listed. In addition to listed items you need normal winter sports clothing + hiking / backpacking gear. Please note also that this is not necessarily complete list and reflects heavily my preferences. There are plenty of other good products and brands out there as well as plenty of unnecessary stuff. Many climbers also create their own accessories.

Phase 1 – absolutely needed (i.e. typically not available for rental):

• 50-70m of try treated single rope, for instance Beal, Joker 9,1 mm x 60 m, Golden DRY is a good choice –> 100-150€
• 2 long slings, Black Diamond Runner, Dynex, 10 mm, 120 cm is a good choice –> 10-15€/each
• 2 medium slings, Black Diamond Runner, Dynex, 10 mm, 60 cm is a good choice –> 7-12€/each
• 60cm of 7mm prusik rope –> 2-5€
• 1 Backpack, anything will do, if you’d like to get a really good try for instance Grivel Alpine 55 + 15 (smaller ones are good as well, but if you’ll buy larger, it will accommodate ropes and other gear you will need at multi pitch routes later on) –> 120-150€

Total: 256-359€

Phase 2 – climbing basics:

• 1 harness, Petzl Corax is a good choice –> 50-70€
• 1 Helmet with visor, Petzl Elios Vizion is a good choice, some times the helmet and visor is being sold separately –> 70-110€
• 1 Belay device, Petzl Reverso3 is a good multipurpose choice –> 30-35€
• 1 large locking carabiner, I’ve used Petzl Williams (though you should select screw gate instead of ball-lock since ball-locks tend to freeze, I don’t have experience on their triact version) –> 8-15€
• 2 regular or small locking carabiners, I’ve used Black Diamond Positron screwgates, though if you’d like light, you should turn in to Wild Country Neon keylock screwgate –> 8-12€/each

Total: 174-254€

Phase 3 – ice climbing basics:

• Mountaineering boots, I’ve used Boreal G1′s, but if you’re not going on high mountains, you might consider something lighter –> 270-370€
• Crampons, Girvel Rambo 4 is a very good choice, which incorporates double point stability in to benefits of monopoint –> 120-170€
• Crampon pouch, Grivel crampon bag has served me just fine –> 10-15€
• Ice axes, I would choose now Grivel Xmonster axes, though beginers might consider also axes with leashes –> 160-240€/pair
• A good headlamp, Petzl Tikka XP is a good choice –> 40-60€
• Gaiters, I’ve used Black Diamond GTX front point gaiters –>60-80€

Total: 660-935€

Phase 4 – practicing lead climbs and anchors:

• 5 standard length (19cm) ice screws, I’ve used Black Diamond Turbo Express screws –> 50-60€/each
• 2 short slings, Black Diamond Runner, Dynex, 10 mm, 120 cm is a good choice –> 5-7€/each
• 1 long sling, Black Diamond Runner, Dynex, 10 mm, 30 cm is a good choice –> 10-15€/each
• 5 quick draws, Wild Country Helium quickdraws are most likely the best at the moment –> 70-100€/set of 5
• 1 large locking carabiner, I’ve used Petzl Williams (though you should select screw gate instead of ball-lock since ball-locks tend to freeze, I don’t have experience on their triact version) –> 8-15€
• 2 small or medium sized carabiners, I’ve used Black Diamond Positron screwgates, though if you’d like light, you should turn in to Wild Country Neon keylock screwgate –> 8-12€/each
• 2 screw clippers, I’ve used Petzl Caritools –> 5-7€/each
• 1 climbing gloves, Black Diamond Enforcers should be a good choice –> 120-180€
• 1 Fifi hook, use for instance Black Diamond fifi hook –> 8-15€
• 1m of 7mm prusik rope –> 3-6€

Total: 505€-683€

Phase 5 – lead climbs:

• 3 standard length (19cm) ice screws, I’ve used Black Diamond Turbo Express screws –> 50-60€/each
• 2 short (13cm) ice screws, I’ve used Black Diamond Turbo Express screws –> 50-60€/each
• 5 quick draws, Wild Country Helium quickdraws are most likely the best at the moment –> 70-100€/set of 5
• Set of half ropes, preferably in different colours so that you can distinguish left from right, Beal Ice Line half ropes are just fine –> 130-160€/each
• 1 First aid kit –> 20-60€
• A large down jacket, Millet Expert down jacket is a good choice, select a large size, so that you can wear it on top of everything else while belaying –> 230-300€

Total: 830-1080€

Phase 6 – multi-pitch routes:

• Few pitons –> 5-15€/each
• Few nuts / hexes –> 8-15€/each
• Set of walky-talkies –> 50-150€
• Small climbing backpack, Grivel Manu is my favourite –> 40-60€
• 10m of 7mm prusik rope, cut and tied in to long prusik loops –> 7-15€

Total: 162-375€

Few equpment images below:

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