I have always considered my self as a pretty careful ice climber. I try to put in protection pretty often and climb well within my abilities. It’s been years since I’ve taken a lead fall on ice. Then all of a sudden I took two couple of weeks ago, while climbing in Tamokdalen, Norway. Well, [...]
Some time ago I bumped into rumor about screws that have replaceable tips. As everyone knows there’s hardly anything more frustrating than a dull screw on a difficult climb. Besides it’s always the one that ends up to your hand whenever you’re in a really difficult spot desperately needing a fast protection… the one you [...]
Ice climbing on a multi pitch route opens an entirely new world. You get to places where you other vice wouldn’t, but you also need a lot more knowledge to make such climb safe and efficient. One of most important things on a multi pitch route is the belay stations between the pitches. One needs [...]
Abalakov thread, named after great Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov, is one of the great mountain safety inventions. It’s also known as a V-thread. Generally speaking Abalakov thread is fairly easy to create, doesn’t require any expensive gear to be left behind and, when created and used properly, it’s safe. Here’s a short introduction to Abalakov thread in a way I’m used [...]
