Picture above: All the three different screws.

Black Diamond Express – On a stance, due to its two carabiner holes Express is obvious choice. I’m grabbing it also on cold hard ice in a difficult situation where I need a fast placement, especially if the placement location is suboptimal, i.e. I need to reach out further than I’d like (or thought due hollow spot).

• Easiest to get started, harder the ice, bigger the difference
• Has two carabiner holes (handy at stance)
• Though the knob in the new model is larger, is still kind of small
• High quality finishing
• Racks well with other “standard” shaped screws
• Set of these with appropriate amount of quickdraws weights about 200g more than the lightest alternative (provided that you use light quick draws, i.e. 70g each)

Picture above: Black Diamond Express screw.

E-climb klau – It’s fastest placing screw on soft ice; it’s obvious; I’ll grab it in difficult situation when the weather is warm and ice is soft.

• Easiest to drive once started
• By far the lightest screw on a rack
• Has replaceable tip
• Furthest reaching folding handle
• Carabiner hole can accommodate two carabiners
• Tip seems to rust easier than competition
• Racks well with other “standard” shaped screws

Picture above: E-climb klau screw.

Grivel Speedy – Great combination of features, excels in all conditions, I’ll use it when everything is flowing well and I want to save the extra move (and thus time) that it takes to find and clip a quick draw.

• While not the lightest as such, you’ll save the weight of a one carabiner
• Very easy to drive, bites reasonably well in all conditions
• Tip protector that doubles up as handle
• Has integrated quickdraw, that saves you from searching and clipping a quick draw from your rack (it’s surprising how big the difference is)
• Large diameter carabiner hole, can take several carabiners
• Very high quality finishing
• Not perhaps as straight forward to rack as “standard”-shaped screws (though I haven’t had any problems with racking).

Picture above: Grivel Speedy screw.

So based on these experiences it seems that I’m going to build a core of my rack around Grivel’s Speedys, though before final decision, I need more experience of them on very hard ice. In addition there will be couple of short, one medium and one long Black Diamond Expresses; unless of course I’ll find Speedys better on hard ice as well. The long and medium Expresses are for building stances and abalakovs. Then there will be a few E-climb klaus, just for those warm days in case I need something longer than the longest standard integrated quickdraw of Speedy (over 30cm).

Then the web-stores that sell these things:

1. Black Diamond Express – REI, Backcountry, Needle Sports, Barrabes, Telemark-Pyrenees, Varuste.net, Camu, Moosejaw, US Outdoor Store, Eastern Mountain Sports, GearX
2. E-climb klau – E-climb
3. Grivel Speedy - Backcountry, Needle Sports, Telemark-Pyrenees, Moosejaw

Few closeup shots of the screws:

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

12►

Picture above: Beghaus Extrem ski touring gloves.

The requirements for a good ice climbing gloves are diverse and often contradictory. The durability, especially on palm side and fingers is a must. Dexterity, especially when dealing with screws, is required. To make the subject even more difficult there’s dozens of variables in play. One must take into account the weather and climbing conditions; even small things such as gear that’s been used, affect the situation heavily. Gloves should be simultaneously wildly breathable, but offer enough warmth and protection from the elements and at the times freely flowing water. In short, even though most of you (ice climbers) probably know already quite a bit of gloves, I thought to share some of my insights and experiences on the topic; I don’t think it’s possible to know too much about it.

General instructions for glove selection

• You need to have several pairs of them - One pair of breathables for approaches, one pair for climbing and one pair to have a dry pair just in case. Typically I will carry even fourth extra warm pair of mitts, especially if it’s cold, for belaying and hanging around. Sometimes, in very cold conditions, I might carry fifth thin wool pair to provide extra warmth under the standard pair. Furthermore you probably need a different primary climbing glove pair for cold and warm days.
• The ones that you use for climbing need to be super durable - Check the palm side, the extra protected area needs to be extra large and durable enough to take the sliding rope and axes. The protected area should reach from fingers to the top of the hand. Pay attention to stitching and seams, which are usually the weak spots. Typically, in high quality glove, extra durable materials, such as Pittard Armortan on palm itself and Kevlar on palm stitching, are being used.
• The primary climbing pair needs to be able to deal with the water - This means most likely Gore-Tex or some similar water proofing in the glove, and such wrist that can be put on top of the jacket. Well, the wrist part is matter of preference in some extent, but I like to route the water on top of my jacket instead of inside of it. Furthermore there are some other ways of dealing with water, such as neoprene, but as said, I prefer water proof. Also if you KNOW that there will be very little or no liquid water (either flowing or in form of rain / wet snow), you could think of something more breathable (=less water proof).
• They need to be dexterous - The basic principle in climbing cold conditions in order to avoid frost bites is that you wear your gloves all the times. You pour and drink your tea, eat your bread while wearing them, you belay and place your screws while wearing them; you tie the knots while wearing them. Though it’s partly a matter of learning it is also a matter of glove as well. Try to find a pair that feels as dexterous as possible.
• Try them out and perhaps several pairs - Gloves tend to vary from glove to glove slightly, choose the pair that gives the best feeling and dexterity while trying. Preferably try them with your ice tools, as glove padding and some of the axe fangs and triggers might not fit together well.
• Pay attention to details - There needs to be easy way to dry them up (how do you hang them?) and they should be washable. Some people (including I) like ones that have some padding to protect the fingers from bruises. It’s not a bad idea to consider as primary climbing glove, at least for cold days, something that has removable lining and a cord that attaches them to your wrists (you don’t like to lose them when there’s an hour down and three hours up).

Some practical glove experiences / reviews:

• Black Diamond Enforcer gloves – My current primary climbing glove. They are warm; the protective area on palm side is large enough and extends to the fingers. There’s a removable Gore-Tex insert which makes the washing and drying easier. So far the best pair I’ve found.
• Grivel Ice Fall gloves – These were my number one primary climbing pair few seasons back. They’re made of strong enough materials, have finger protection and are water proof. Their overall quality is good. They could breathe better and certain parts of the palm stitching seem to be in areas that experience heavy wear. They’ve been a very good pair in deed. Note that Grivel sizing is extremely small; as a result you probably start trying something that’s at least one size bigger than your usual size.
• Grivel Taa-k-oon gloves – I’ve used these for approaches, cross country ski-in and in very rare occasions warm weather climbing. They are fairly breathable, offer good grip and plenty of dexterity. For me though, they’re too thin for climbing. It’s usually just too cold for them. They’ve served me well for several years though and seem to be good quality. Note the Grivel sizing.
• Bergaus Extrem gloves – My “dry pair”. They’re surprisingly warm and dexterous, the leather is soft and they breathe fairly well. I actually bought these to be my primary climbing gloves, but the problem was the fact that they weren’t hard enough for climbing; seams tear apart when stressed (there were several rips in less than two days of heavy use). I have also frequently used these for ski touring, which is ideal purpose for them (I guess that’s what they are designed for). Despite the design shortages (seam durability) from climbing perspective, they’re extremely good quality gloves.
• Ice Breaker Merino Liner gloves – Liners to add extra warmth during the coldest days of winter. They’re good though add more bulk when worn under Enforcers.
• Salomon Mitts (don’t know the type) – I’ve used Salomon mitts mainly for belaying and while standing around on very cold days. They’re extremely warm, but the materials aren’t water proof and they aren’t durable enough for actual climbing. The slight problem with these is the fact that the material is so thin, that they can get stuck in to your belay device.
• Unknown Fleece / Fiber Fill breathable gloves – I’ve used these mainly for approaches on cold days. They’re warm, light and breathable, but not very durable – a cheapest option of adding warmth for summer mountaineering at Kebnekaise few years back (forgot to bring any gloves). Did the trick and have been in frequent use even though the quality hasn’t been perfect.

Few images of gloves:

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

At first First Shot feels sturdy, high quality, piece of gear; exactly what we have come to expect from Black Diamond. There are several problems though. First Shot is somewhat difficult to open with gloves. The metal hook, that’s supposed to be used for cutting and threading the cord through the hole, bends very easily. Furthermore it’s not at all that easy as you could think to create the Abalakov using First Shot. Everything was even worse when the conditions were difficult. We tested the thing both in good conditions and in dark pretty heavy snow storm and ended up doing the Abalakov thread traditional way each time.

Of course it might just be that I was dumb enough not to figure out the correct way of operation. I kind of doubt that though. I went through the instructions pretty well and did several trials prior to trying First Shot on real ice. Based on my experience in its current stage it is not worth of your money. For me First Shot was a huge disappointment. Especially because Black Diamond usually gets it right.

Picture above: Grivel Rambo 4′s, fresh out of package

Rambo’s have long been the ones, on what comes to rigid crampons. Rambo 4′s introduce several new features, such as optimized curved shape and factory installed antibots. Probably the most innovative new feature is the mono point structure, where stabilizing side point has been added to bring in some of the dual point crampon benefits without sacrificing the penetration qualities of mono point. In addition Rambo 4 package includes optional heel point and necessary tools for maintenance.

The length of the Rambo’s can be adjusted just removing one screw. There are several other adjustments available as well. There’s one caveat, there aren’t that many options for front and rear bars as holes on the frame would let you expect, other parts, unlike in earlier Rambos, prevent use of some adjustment holes. Rambos fitted securely despite small opening which were left between the back of the shoe and crampon. Being rigid crampon, and therefore less adjustable, fitting with your shoe is still something you should make sure before you buy. Though, if you own earlier version of Rambos, they’ll likely to fit.

During the Norway trip we climbed three days. It was my pleasure to notice that side-point structure worked like charm. Rambo 4′s are indeed stable, without sacrificing the monopoint benefits. Rambos penetrate ice easily and securely, they hold very well in various ice and climbing conditions, including curtains and icicles. In short they were splendid to climb on. I warmly recommend Rambo 4′s for any vertical ice. They’re by far the best rigid crampons I’ve climbed with. They’re a bit heavy and perhaps a bit too clumsy for walking, though I’ve been walking with them as well.

Web stores that sell Grivel Rambo 4 crampons: Backcountry, Needle Sports, Telemark-Pyrenees, Varuste.net, Eastern Mountan Sports

Few images about Grivel Rambo 4′s below:

[Show as slideshow]

[View with PicLens]

Picture above: Wild Country Helium quickdraw

Traditionally wiregates are lightweight and easy to clip, but on the other hand there is a nose that can hook up (=get stuck) either on the screw while unclipping, harness while clipping or somewhere else whatever it is. I’ve heard also some talk about wiregates being a bit less secure, because they are said to unclip easier in dead man’s loop situation. On the other hand wiregates are less prone to freezing, though I gave to say that I haven’t had any problems with my Black Diamond positron quickdraws either.

So what about Heliums then? First thing you note is the fact that Heliums are extremely light, lot lighter than traditional wiregate quickdraws tend to be, and it’s full sized (which is good). Second thing you note is the coloring of the carabineers, each end is colored differently, rope end being red. By closer look one notes the fact that the nose of the gate is being shielded, which prevents hooking (in my opinion the biggest annoyance with wiregates). The features include also rubber o-ring that keeps the rope-end carabineer in right position and eases up clipping.

In real climbing situation Heliums provided to be extremely easy to clip, and being light, climbs are that much easier. In short they seemed to work like thought. So far I haven’t found anything negative, except perhaps price. If I do, I will let you know. In case I would need new quickdraws, I would buy more Heliums. That’s probably the strongest recommendation one can give.

Update 12.5.2010

The rubber thing keeping the rope-end carabiner in place tends to break from stitching in cold conditions. The rubber material used there just can’t take it what comes to climbing in cold. It does not effect to the safety of the carabiner, but makes may result a bit less easy clippings. Until they change the material I would consider something else for ice climbing especially in extra cold environments. See the weak spots of quality gear article.

Few images of the Helium Quickdraw below:

Topics currently on the drawing board:

• Creating a perfect Abalakov thread (V-thread) – Detailed instructions, tips and tricks for creating Abalakov thread.
• The perfect belay anchor on ice – Detailed instructions, tips and tricks for creating belay anchors, techniques involved changing the lead etc.
• Emergency skills on multi-pitch ice climb - Skills, tips and tricks for emergency situations on multi-pitch climbing routes.
• Quickdraw s – what’s different? - A small review on different types of quickdraws.
• Kebnekaise randonee trip – Trip story about last year’s randonee trip with plenty of (good) images.
• Dreambag – In search for best down sleeping bag for high mountain trips.
• Handy equipment review – Review on some not so necessary, but handy, equipment there is for ice climbing
• The best ice climbing websites – Review and tips for best ice climbing related web-sites in the cyberspace.

In addition to these there will be plenty of climbing trip stories and images. So table is yours let me know, what would you like read.

According to manufacturer N-rit heat pads provide up to 20 hours of warmth, the average temperature being 60 degrees in Celsius. Pads are odorless, non toxic and disposable. The extra plus on these is the fact that pads can be put back in to reseal able outer packaging, which stops the warmth. As a result they can be used on multiple occasions

Pads warm up within few minutes; one just needs to shake the pad to get it going. This being said you should prepare the pads before you’re freezing. Those few minutes are very long if you are. I can tell.

I’ve used these inside my gloves. They were an excellent aid while climbing in very low (around -30 in Celsius) temperatures. Problem with these pads is the size, they’re a bit difficult to place inside the glove unless there’s large enough integrated heat pad compartment there. In addition to gloves, these can be used inside sleeping bags, jackets, or for instance to warm up electronic equipment for prolonged usage.

I bought my pads from Kärkkäinen, Oulu, Finland. Price was around 2 euros. This being said, I’m sure that any well equiped sports store will sell these or something similar.