Balanced V-thread (aka Abalakov)Tuesday, January 4th, 2011 with 1 Comment »

There was recently a discussion at www.rockclimbing.com about how to do a balanced V-thread (you can see the discussion here).  As one of the speculated methods was a long prusik cord combined with a sliding x -type of setup I decided to test it out. The test results can be summarized as a success. I found it [...]

Review – Black Diamond First ShotSunday, May 2nd, 2010 with Comments Off

For some reason descending using Abalakov thread (v-thread) is always kind of exciting experience. Though it is known, when created properly, Abalakov thread is as safe as any ice protection; it just does not feel as secure as hanging in a screw. In an Abalakov thread one of the biggest question marks, from reliability stand [...]

Creating Abalakov thread (V-thread)Monday, February 2nd, 2009 with Comments Off

Abalakov thread, named after great Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov, is one of the great mountain safety inventions. It’s also known as a V-thread. Generally speaking Abalakov thread is fairly easy to create, doesn’t require any expensive gear to be left behind and, when created and used properly, it’s safe. Here’s a short introduction to Abalakov thread in a way I’m used [...]